I'm afraid the only way you're going to get any kind of stand at all, is you'll have to mow it down, and then either disk it before you sow it, or drill it with a no-til drill. Overseeding just doesn't work that well, and unless you have gobs of seed to waste, it isn't cost effective. U of A did a nice study a few years ago on overseeding pasture vs. drilling, and if my memory serves it seems like they got an 85 or 90 percent germination on the drilled seed and something like 30 to 40 percent on that seed that was broadcast. You might look it up and see, but like I said, you're not gonna be happy with it.
Tom and Paul both make good points, and I want to add this to what they've said: If you really want to go no-til, sell all your other implements with the exception of your sprayer and your bush hog and go and get yourself a small no-til drill. Yes, a 6' drill is 9 grand and no, it won't pay for itself the first couple years. But if you want anything close to a decent stand without using conventional tillage, then you're going to have to bite the bullet and do it. Myself, I'm too tight to buy a $9K drill to do a little spot of ground. That's why I'm still using tillage methods and implements from 1950. The machinery is paid for and the method works well. And if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
And as Tom said, this is my opinion, and its worth exactly what you gave for it.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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