Can you just replace the cartridge in the old valve? That's usually the best way to go.
When soldering a new valve, it's best if you can remove its cartridge to avoid heat damage. And I prefer to not solder directly to the valve, if possible, since the mass of the valve soaks up a lot of heat making it tough to get a good joint. What I do is to solder short pieces of pipe to 1/2 inch male pipe thread adapters, then screw those into the valve. Then you can use sweat couplings to connect to the existing plumbing. It's much easier to solder connections which are a few inches away from the shower valve. (Obviously this won't work if you only have room for street elbows into the shower valve; in that case I'd solder in the street elbows before installing the valve, as you'll have better access to the joints.)
I like to use tees rather than elbows to plumb in shower valves, with stubbed-off pipes a few inches long above the valve. This helps to eliminate pipe hammer in the shower and the rest of the house.
As for resoldering an existing joint, sure you can do it, but you need to wipe off as much of the old solder as possible, then get it very clean with emery cloth. Make sure the pipe is clean well beyond the fitting.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1929 McCormick-Deering 10-20 - by Randal Simmon. On July 4th 1998 my dad and I was sitting on the front porch when he said that he was going to sell his two 10-20's to a junk man. He said that the junk man was going to give him $500 for both of them but he hadn't received the money for them yet. So I went into the house and wrote him a check for $500 and bought them myself and said now they are mine. He had bought them about five years before thinking that he was going to restore them himself. After five years sitting in the barn, he changed h
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