Can you just replace the cartridge in the old valve? That's usually the best way to go.
When soldering a new valve, it's best if you can remove its cartridge to avoid heat damage. And I prefer to not solder directly to the valve, if possible, since the mass of the valve soaks up a lot of heat making it tough to get a good joint. What I do is to solder short pieces of pipe to 1/2 inch male pipe thread adapters, then screw those into the valve. Then you can use sweat couplings to connect to the existing plumbing. It's much easier to solder connections which are a few inches away from the shower valve. (Obviously this won't work if you only have room for street elbows into the shower valve; in that case I'd solder in the street elbows before installing the valve, as you'll have better access to the joints.)
I like to use tees rather than elbows to plumb in shower valves, with stubbed-off pipes a few inches long above the valve. This helps to eliminate pipe hammer in the shower and the rest of the house.
As for resoldering an existing joint, sure you can do it, but you need to wipe off as much of the old solder as possible, then get it very clean with emery cloth. Make sure the pipe is clean well beyond the fitting.
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Today's Featured Article - A Brief History of Tractors in Australia - by Bob Kavanagh. After Captain Cook's exploration of the east coast in 1770 the British Government decided to establish a penal colony in Australia. The first fleet arrived in 1788 and consisted mainly of convicts who were poorly equipped and new little of farming techniques. The colony remained far from self-supporting and it was not until the early 1800's that things started to improve. Free settlers started to arrive, they followed the explorers across the mountains and where land was suitable set up farms. T
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