Posted by JD Seller on December 18, 2016 at 16:15:01 from (208.126.196.24):
In Reply to: jd seller and others posted by uncletom on December 18, 2016 at 11:50:33:
Tom the quill where the MFWD drive shaft quill(#31) is held with three bolts. You can remove it and replace the seal after removing the front drive shaft. In the parts diagram # 29 is the seal Part # 48M7038, Then you will also want to replace #28 Oring part # L33257. Watch and catch all #27 shims and put them back exactly like they come out, they set the end play on this shaft. # 30 is a washer make sure and put it back in.
You will need to drain all the hydraulic oil. I would clean the sump screen while I had the oil out.
This seal is not a common one to leak. It usually is the wheel hubs that leak. That is what I was talking about. Check and see if you wrapped something around the MFWD drive shaft as that is what usually takes out this seal. If you do not have all the shields in place do so when you put it back together. This area is low to the ground and a prime area for things to wrap if the shields are bad/gone.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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