Rick, Boy, we've been here before haven't we? I propose this situation to you: new tractor person has found 5 tractors he'd like to look at, and asks this board for advice. They are as follows: 1. Ford 4000. LPTO, power steering, and loader. Diesel, 4500 hours on working meter. $5500. 2. Farmall 400. Gas, power steering and add on 3pt. Loader. In good shape. $3500 3. Massey 65. Gas, no ps but LPTO and good lift. In excellent shape. $3000 4. Allis Chalmers D 15. Gas, ps, lpto, 3pt no loader. $4500. Recently overhauled. 5. 8n Ford. With Dearborn loader and brush hog. $3000. What would you recommend? For myself, I put them in the order I'd take them. It would be hard to choose between 1 and 2. # 3 I wouldn't have, no ps. #4 would be alright and then find a loader. #5 I'm out. See 10,000 threads on Ns with loaders. The kicker? All are on lots or my local c list. All are well under budget for OP. At least here in the South. If memory serves, you are in Michigan. You say the farmalls with 3pt are hard to find. Not so down here, where poor farmers had to make do with old equipment. Many tractors here have added 3pts, because newer tractors were too pricey. Things are simply different here, than there. Please do not misunderstand my intention. I am not calling you out or putting you down. I am simply stating that the norm in Michigan is not the same here. Here you can get cheap horsepower. Usable horsepower. The same holds true for the OP. In Texas, too there is good cheap power to be had. I have watched many threads, of the same nature on this board. All bear credence, and all merit reading. I'm off my soapbox now. But one last thought: No hard feelings, Rick.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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