Looking for some advise on buying a tractor!

Hi,
I have recently purchased 22 acres of land and am looking for a tractor with a cutter for brush hogging, loader/bucket and a post hole digger. I am not planning to do any real farming but maybe a few goats etc.

I am completely new to the world of farming and have no idea what type of tractor would be suitable for this kind of work.

Can someone please give me some advise on what to buy and where to look for?

Thanks in advance!

Kind of depends upon your budget. Any where from an 8N ford,to something brand new......$5000 to 7000 dollars will get you a decent later model tractor.About 35 to 40 horse,utility type.You will want power steering;live/independent PTO;remote hydralics....A 135/150 Massey;3000/4000 ford are just a very few of the possibilitys.

Ford 3000, Diesel, 8 speed, LIVE PTO. Hands down.

Farmall 300 350 400 or 450 are fine modern tractors. Very cost effective for the money and they have live hydraulics, Live PTO and 8 speeds forward and 2 in reverse. Massy 135, Oliver 550, and Mahindra are also reasonable. JD is good but pricey. 35 to 60 hp is desirable. Gasoline is easier to start and probably less expensive. Stay clear of Diesel IH or Farmall 350s. Jim

Where would he find that post hole digger for those Farmalls? They did not have a 3 point hitch and the conversions just might not work with the newer diggers. Stay with something with factory 3 point hitch and live hydrolicks.

I like the Deere utilities. A 1020,1520,2020,1530,2030,2040,2240,2440's are all good tractors for what you need. They have great hyd's and parts are very easy to find. Resale value is very good as well.I buy and sell equipment and have owned dozens of the above tractors. I good cheaper tractor would be a Massey Fergeson 50,65,150,165. Stay away from the 180's. Tom

Find the two closest dealers, for parts and service and advice, and go from there.

I would say it depends on your price range. There are alot of good old fords that would work, or say the Massey Ferguson line. If you are worried about repairs than look at what dealers you have close. I personally like the old orange, and a good D-17 is hard to beat and you can easily adapt the older ones to 3ph, some of the later models came factory 3ph. But I have owned just about everything on the farm from JD, IH, Ford, Case. They all make or made a decent tractor. Plus what is available in your area.

What post hole digger would work with the earlier D17 even with the 3 point conversion, don't think most will. He needs to know what will work there before he considers one of the earlier D17 snap coupler tractors And I can tell he would have no idea what a snap coupler his or a fast hitch on IHC or even a egal hitch on a Case. Other than the hitch for what he wants they could be a good tractor for him but that hitch.

If money is not a concern, buy new. You'll never regret it. Bought a John Deere 5303 8 years ago, brand new, and couldn't be happier. I think the new JD equivalent is the "5E" series. You want a tractor you can use, not have to work on. I'm sorry - maybe this is blasphemy - but those older beloved tractors are getting pretty "long in the tooth". I love my Farmall 460, and my Super C, but my workhorse is the John Deere. (by the way, I have no connection to the John Deere company. Just a satisfied customer). Also, I think 4WD is overrated. If you have a front end loader (which you should), you can always claw your way out of trouble.



-jhilyer

I would look for a newer Kubota or John Deere. Think 4 wheel drive is a must. We have a 4320 compact JD.

I use a post hole digger on my 300 all the time. It has a Saginaw 3pt hitch on it, and I have 4 neighbors that have 4 different PHD's and I have yet to have an issue with any of them. I have also had two of my own, both different than any of the neighbors. I have NEVER had an issue hooking something to my 3pt. Some time ago, we had a Super M w/ Fasthitch. I bought prongs to convert to 3pt, and I still never had an issue. But, if you take your time and use your head, you shouldn't have issues, I don't care what color tractor or what hitch system it has on it. 99% of all hook up issues have 0% to do with the hitch, but how the implement was un-hooked and stored/parked. I preach this to all my nephews and all the other start-out guys around that come and ask me. I have had issues, in the past, heck we all have. However, I learn from these issues and I feel like I have enough experience to know how NOT to make my life miserable. Life is too short to be miserable, trust me.

To the OP: My advice to you, after many years in the game, is do NOT buy new, unless you like being in debt. DO buy something that is more than 30hp, that has live or independent PTO, power steering, and good hydraulics. The Ford's are good, so are the A/C's. For real work, skip the 2-cylinder Deeres and go up to something a little newer (Having said that, I have a JD B that does it's share of work on the place). I'm an IH fan. I like how they're built, and how the run. They're easier to work on (when you need to) and have plenty of amenities, like power steering and IPTO. It's also my OPINION that unless you're feeding a lot of round bale hay in bunk-type feeders, or are moving a lot of material (Rocks, dirt, snow, etc.), you don't need a loader. I actually considered one, but after considering what I do, and the cost, I figured out that a bale spear, boom pole, and pond scoop are a lot cheaper and easier to use. Again, just my opinion. And finally, it's my OPINION that if you aren't actually "farming" but doing what you say on 22 acres, you do NOT need a diesel tractor. Buy a gas, and be satisfied when it's 5 degrees out and it turns over twice and fires off. Keep points clean and change plugs occasionally, and you shouldn't have too many other issues. When injector pumps go out, your hip pocket is gonna hurt, bad. Trust me. I've stated before, I own 80 acres and rent about that much more, and do all my work with a Farmall 300 and a John Deere B, both gassers. Oh, and an old Polaris 2-cycle fourwheeler. I bush-hog almost all of it with a 6' bush-hog, since I sold the 8'. I put in about 20 acres of corn and beans with them, using 2 row equipment. Pick corn with a 1 row picker. Beans get an A/C Allcrop 60, that I borrow from the neighbor. I guess what I'm trying to say is, the older stuff will do all YOU want to do. As long as you take good care of it, and remember that its a tractor, not a D-6.

Mac

I think the group here needs some guidance from you. How much money are you looking to spend or is in your budget? Any particular features that stand out you really want or need? Diesel? Gasoline? Horsepower you are after? Cab or no cab? How many hours per year are you looking to put on the tractor? Used or new? If used, how old of a model year are you willing to go back to? Are you in the "snow belt" where snow removal is going to be a part of your life to contend with? How about the attachments you may want? You mentioned a post hole auger, a brush hog, and front end loader. Any others you want or will likely want in the near future? Compact utility tractor, utility tractor, or row crop? What type of ground drive transmission - fixed gear drive, power shift, or hydrostatic? A fixer upper or something that is ready to work and will take care of you and your needs for many years?

I will share my own experience. Some years ago when I purchased my first place in the country, I had a couple older tractors. They suited my needs for the most part, but fell short in the interest of snow removal. A year later I purchased a 65 horsepower (656 Farmall) with a New Idea loader. The tractor was kind of tired, and the loader was barely adequate, but I got by for 10 years with it. I did not have to stick a bunch of money into that tractor in the years I had it either. It fit my budget for that time, until I could upgrade to something better. I managed to get a decent trade in allowance on it when I traded it in for the machine I have now. I upgraded a couple years ago to a really nice, low hour IH 86 Hydro with a Westendorf loader. It was more money than I wanted to spend, but the loader was like new, the tractor in nice shape, and ultimately I have not regretted spending a little more on something decent. It has always been where I tried to skimp, is where I regretted it in the end. I also opted for a 7 foot wide snow blower on the 3 point hitch. I have a really good, dependable tractor which is the perfect machine on the snow blower. The hydrostatic drive seemed to be in very good shape. I don't want to have to tear into that anytime soon, but it looks as if it should be a good tractor for a long time.

Sorry for the lengthy and vague response, but as you will probably find, there is a wide range out there on the open market. You could buy a 50 year old gasoline powered row crop farm tractor rated around 60 or 70 horsepower, and will probably cost you between $4000 and $6000. You could move up to something 35 years old and probably spend twice that amount. You could go for something new or close to brand new and spend the likes of $50,000, or perhaps more. I had looked for about a year and a half before I bought my 86 Hydro. I was amazed at what "junk" was bringing in terms of price when I was shopping for something different. I also do not like to trade very often. My only complaint I have with my Hydro is there is no cab. That is NOT a deal breaker because I spend a lot less time out there moving snow with the snow blower, as compared to pushing and shoving it around with a front end loader before.

THANKS A LOT to all of you for the great feedback so far.

Here is some more info:
1) My budget is limited. Initially, I thought I could get a decent tractor with a loader, brush hog, box gear and a post hole digger for $5,000 - $6,000. I soon realized that it was not realistic.
I have now a total budget of $10,000 - $12,000 for the tractor and the above mentioned implements.
2) I live in North Texas and, fortunately, we don't need to deal with snow -!
3) There are a lot of trees and weeds on the property and I will need to clean it up very well. So, I think the brush hog and loader with the bucket are a must.
4) I have no plan for any heavy farming as it is a too small land for any real farming and I have a full-time job. But I plan to put some goats on the property to help me keep the weeds under control.
5) I also noticed that the very old tractors have no ROPS which is very important to someone like me with no experience with driving and operating a tractor
6) As it can really get very hot in Texas in summer time, I prefer a tractor with a cab and AC.
7) I am inclined to buy a used tractor from a local dealer to make sure that I get some help if the tractor breaks down.

Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated.

Thank you all again!

All I know is I have heard on this site that some of the hitches do not have PTO shaft room, that is all I know. Better to be aware of possible problems that to find out after you buy things. And the post hole digger I have hastens to the 3 point arms but does not use a top link. It mountes to under axle brackets I found out I needed and did not get with it. So I am just saying beware of possible problems. I used to have a loader but don't anymore but wish I still had as I need it. The boom I have and it will not do the lifting of a loader that I need. And gas is the way to go.

Why is 4wd a must on a tractor that's going to be seeing such limited duty?

Why would a post hole digger not work on an earlier D17 (Series I II or III) that has a 3 point?

The only problem with a D17 is fixing the brakes if they are worn out. Whoever designed that mess should have their arse kicked and then kicked again. Otherwise they are great mid sized tractor.

he is talking compact utility kubota no weight need 4 wheel for traction.

King: most of the guys gave good ideas but I would spend a lot of time doing a lot of looking. See what you like and what seems to work. Talk to others maybe try out that Massey 65 or Kubota. I would shy away from the real old stuff unless your a good mechanic or want it as antique. Is resale value an issue down the road???? Do you have someone to look at used to help you avoid unforeseen repair???

Completely new. Buy with the most safety features you can. ROPS and operator presence relay to shut down tractor in the event of falling off. As you age, power steering, hydro static drive which provides a lower and more level platform for entering/exiting, front wheel assist and fel are among the few. Perhaps an enclosed cab. Oops, just went over budget.

IMHO - look at a Massey Ferguson 135 or Ford 3000 as a baseline. Note their hp and features, i.e. factory 3 pt hitch, some with power steering and make sure they have the hi-lo tranny range. From there consider your hp needs, if any more hp is necessary, and then with your budget, see if you can find something similar, only newer, be it JD or Kubota or something else.

Much farming in excess of 22 acres is and was done with a MF 135 and/or Ford 3000 type tractor in our VA mountains and from the western NC mountains from which I am familiar. Prices for these type tractors are reasonable; they will suit your needs IMHO, no problem with parts and most importantly internet support via forums like this one.

Good luck,
Bill

First check yo see what the farmers in the area are using in newer tractors. That's a good indication of how good a brand is as far as support. Then you need a slight education as to who support what. AGCO is Allis Chalmers, Oliver, White and a few others. CaseIH supports Farmall/IH, Case and Ford. Newholland supports Newholland and Ford plus anything CaseIH sells.

2nd thing is to know that with what you stated you are going to have to have a 3 point hitch system. A tractor that cost 1K can add up to more than 3K by the time you add an aftermarket 3 point, live hydraulics and power steering. So if you add a 1K 3 point to say a 3500-5K AC D17 now you have 4500-6K into it just to use it.

ROPS is important especially for new folks like you. There are companies that make and sell them as aftermarket items. Be aware that they are not a whole lot of good if you wind up pined under the ROPs because you failed to install a seat belt or to use one.

Area will make a difference as far as value. Here 10-12K will buy a nice, just about bullet proof Ford 3000 or 4000. It will buy a larger tractor with cab, hit and miss if the AC works though. Now don't get me wrong because there are other tractors out there that are good too.

Just a quick look at CL ads shows a 4630 Ford with a very nice loader with joystick control and quick-tach bucker, what appears to be very good rubber, shuttle shift too at the very top of your price range. Couple of 3/4000's in the 4-6K range. 5900 Ford with loader (bigger still)
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/6/268-ford-5900.html for under 10K. Now these are just examples of what's out there and cost. Now I happen to like Fords but there are other tractors out there that are as good and if dealer support is needed sometimes better, again depending on the area.

Now one guy said look at the 300 to 400 series IH tractors (Farmall). While I own 2 Farmall tractors I would not recommend those. At best they have the 2 point Fast Hitch. Just not as good a system as the 3 point IMO. 3 point lets you make much finer adjustments when needed. And finding 2 point implements can be a pain. Be one of the last ones I would recommend. Same with any Allis Chalmers with the Snap Coupler. IMO both tractors should be run away from for what you want to use them for. Nothing wrong with either tractor, just not what you describe needing and lacking a 3 point makes both less desirable.

Now in a full sized tractor finding something with a cab shouldn't be too hard in the 5-10K range but it's hit and miss if it has AC and it works. Just gotta check the area. May well be worth your money to pay a mechanic to go out and look something over for you.

Rick

I think that a cab is going to put you out of the other features and implements that you say are important to you. A canopy will keep the sun off you and enhances the air movement past your body. ROPS can be added to ANY tractor. Your price range is going to put you at over twenty years old. Don't expect much help from a dealer on anything over twenty years old. Since you will need help, look around for a small independent dealer. There are lots of them, and for the most part you will get 50% more for your service/maintenance dollar from one of them. Don't try to kid yourself that any of the new mega dealers is going to care about you after they get your money, unless you buy new.

I completely understand what you mean. Some hitches do interfere with pto operation. However, most of that interference is caused by the pto gaurd, in my experience. I'm not saying that IH or A/C with a 3pt on it is superior to anything else. I am saying that they are just as good, however. I hope you didn't take anything personally. It was not meant to be. I'm afraid I am plain spoken (my Irish blood tends to show) and some take it as being rude. But, its not the case.
Mac

Rick,
Boy, we've been here before haven't we? I
propose this situation to you: new tractor
person has found 5 tractors he'd like to
look at, and asks this board for advice.
They are as follows:
1. Ford 4000. LPTO, power steering, and
loader. Diesel, 4500 hours on working meter.
$5500.
2. Farmall 400. Gas, power steering and add
on 3pt. Loader. In good shape. $3500
3. Massey 65. Gas, no ps but LPTO and good
lift. In excellent shape. $3000
4. Allis Chalmers D 15. Gas, ps, lpto, 3pt
no loader. $4500. Recently overhauled.
5. 8n Ford. With Dearborn loader and brush
hog. $3000.
What would you recommend?
For myself, I put them in the order I'd take
them. It would be hard to choose between 1
and 2. # 3 I wouldn't have, no ps. #4 would
be alright and then find a loader. #5 I'm
out. See 10,000 threads on Ns with loaders.
The kicker? All are on lots or my local c
list. All are well under budget for OP. At
least here in the South. If memory serves,
you are in Michigan. You say the farmalls
with 3pt are hard to find. Not so down here,
where poor farmers had to make do with old
equipment. Many tractors here have added
3pts, because newer tractors were too
pricey. Things are simply different here,
than there. Please do not misunderstand my
intention. I am not calling you out or
putting you down. I am simply stating that
the norm in Michigan is not the same here.
Here you can get cheap horsepower. Usable
horsepower. The same holds true for the OP.
In Texas, too there is good cheap power to
be had. I have watched many threads, of the
same nature on this board. All bear
credence, and all merit reading.
I'm off my soapbox now. But one last
thought: No hard feelings, Rick.

Mac

Finding the tractor you want is important but beware some makes & models are very expensive to repair you could spend all that money and a month later need unforeseen extensive repairs. For me repair part costs are a big issue to consider at some point you will need a full rebuild you may want to look at the price of those kits of the tractors you are considering. Lots of the kits are reasonable depending on make and model. Others are way out there. You can easily spend more on just repair parts than you paid for the tractor or in other words more than its worth. I would just caution Buyer beware. Get as much advice and recommendations as you can and try to have someone with you who is savy about tractors. However all in all its your choice do your research Look right here and you will see a lot of the problems and issues that a Particular tractor may have. Also go to that make of tractor page and post the question. I'm sure you will get plenty of response's good and bad.
Best of luck in your search
Byron

i work on lot different tractor over the years but have come to the conclusion that suggesting a type style brand to some one to by is a no win deal just this a s example guy buy a mf 150 need good running tractor runs a few day the out board planetary drive fails lack of oil over the years seem most guys never check them so tell him i can probably find a use planetary well he tell me he want new parts in it so price new parts he decide the used be ok.. so planetary labor oil couple other things new seals bearing total come in at around 1850.00 now i know he paid 3200 for tractor as if he hadn't taken it i was going to. so you add the 1850 to the 3200 you got 5000 in it now... so you good deal might not be such a good deal.. so when getting ready to by a use tractor do some checking on it you cant find everything that is wrong but some you can i always a little leery of used tractor are real clean if first time tractor buy i may be inclined to go to a dealer you might at least get some warranty even if it on a 30 day deal

I don't know if there is anything in the way that would interfer with a power shaft or not so just telling him to check. Better to be prepaired than to have problems. Some 3 point conversions I have seen just put a snap coupler hitch on to the 3 point implement to make it hook up like a snap coupler piece of equipment. Just better check things out befor he buys than find a problem after.

(quoted from post at 16:34:08 10/17/16) Rick,
Boy, we've been here before haven't we? I
propose this situation to you: new tractor
person has found 5 tractors he'd like to
look at, and asks this board for advice.
They are as follows:
1. Ford 4000. LPTO, power steering, and
loader. Diesel, 4500 hours on working meter.
$5500.
2. Farmall 400. Gas, power steering and add
on 3pt. Loader. In good shape. $3500
3. Massey 65. Gas, no ps but LPTO and good
lift. In excellent shape. $3000
4. Allis Chalmers D 15. Gas, ps, lpto, 3pt
no loader. $4500. Recently overhauled.
5. 8n Ford. With Dearborn loader and brush
hog. $3000.
What would you recommend?
For myself, I put them in the order I'd take
them. It would be hard to choose between 1
and 2. # 3 I wouldn't have, no ps. #4 would
be alright and then find a loader. #5 I'm
out. See 10,000 threads on Ns with loaders.
The kicker? All are on lots or my local c
list. All are well under budget for OP. At
least here in the South. If memory serves,
you are in Michigan. You say the farmalls
with 3pt are hard to find. Not so down here,
where poor farmers had to make do with old
equipment. Many tractors here have added
3pts, because newer tractors were too
pricey. Things are simply different here,
than there. Please do not misunderstand my
intention. I am not calling you out or
putting you down. I am simply stating that
the norm in Michigan is not the same here.
Here you can get cheap horsepower. Usable
horsepower. The same holds true for the OP.
In Texas, too there is good cheap power to
be had. I have watched many threads, of the
same nature on this board. All bear
credence, and all merit reading.
I'm off my soapbox now. But one last
thought: No hard feelings, Rick.

Mac

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Hey no problem, I don't have any idea what's going on in MI either! Still with a budget of over 10 K I'd be hard pressed to pass up on a 5K Ford 4000 over a much cheaper Farmall 400 especially when the utility style will have a lower center of gravity for the task he's planning on performing. Up here in MN we had plenty of poor farmers too. They didn't have the extra cash to add on a 3 point! In fact a lot didn't buy the optional 2 point. Most of those guys failed for various reason during the 80's farm crisis. But the number of 400 and 450 around here is good. Quick CL search 200 miles out shows several at pretty reasonable prices. Funny thing is of the ones listed 2 out of 3 are bare back. So in that case a guy is looking at 1K or so to add a 3 point. The problem here is finding implements for them. Quick Hitch implements are few and far between and expensive for what they are. Most of the drawbar stuff has gone to the scrappers years ago. Then comes the hydraulics and loader. That Ford 4000 is going to have faster cycle times than a 400. Not important to everyone but it is to some. And I'm not saying the 400 is a bad tractor. For what the OP states I don't think it's the best tractor given his budget.

Rick

(quoted from post at 15:24:42 10/17/16)
I think that a cab is going to put you out of the other features and implements that you say are important to you. A canopy will keep the sun off you and enhances the air movement past your body. ROPS can be added to ANY tractor. Your price range is going to put you at over twenty years old. Don't expect much help from a dealer on anything over twenty years old. Since you will need help, look around for a small independent dealer. There are lots of them, and for the most part you will get 50% more for your service/maintenance dollar from one of them. Don't try to kid yourself that any of the new mega dealers is going to care about you after they get your money, unless you buy new.

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I wasn't talking about actual repairs. I was talking about parts. If you have to wait on parts or drive 200 miles to get them you may want to look for another brand. I don't care how good your mechanic is if he can't get parts he can't fix it without racking up a lot of hours if at all. Same with a guy working in town and trying to get the work done on weekends. If the tractor is broken it isn't doing him any good. Then add in waiting for parts? Now your a week behind!

Rick

(quoted from post at 20:32:31 10/17/16)

(quoted from post at 15:24:42 10/17/16)
I think that a cab is going to put you out of the other features and implements that you say are important to you. A canopy will keep the sun off you and enhances the air movement past your body. ROPS can be added to ANY tractor. Your price range is going to put you at over twenty years old. Don't expect much help from a dealer on anything over twenty years old. Since you will need help, look around for a small independent dealer. There are lots of them, and for the most part you will get 50% more for your service/maintenance dollar from one of them. Don't try to kid yourself that any of the new mega dealers is going to care about you after they get your money, unless you buy new.

Click to expand...

I wasn't talking about actual repairs. I was talking about parts. If you have to wait on parts or drive 200 miles to get them you may want to look for another brand. I don't care how good your mechanic is if he can't get parts he can't fix it without racking up a lot of hours if at all. Same with a guy working in town and trying to get the work done on weekends. If the tractor is broken it isn't doing him any good. Then add in waiting for parts? Now your a week behind!

Rick

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I used to try to support my local dealer. Even though he never had what I needed and it was a trip to order, and a trip to pick up. After he screwed me on a service job I started buying from an online store which is far more convenient, faster, and less money. Dealers stock very few parts any more as we all know, while one with a high volume on line store can stock far more. This is why buying a piece of equipment based on dealer parts support is unfortunately a practice from a bygone era.

Why? Series I and II were like the WD/WD45, Series III had the band/disc brakes. Yes, Had to remove the finals, but what, every ? years? Did my 1963 one time. It was over 30 years old.