You do not have the true dial-a-matic control box. They need six or seven wires to work on all ranges. Yours has an adaptor harness on it to make it work on a single range. As for pulling up on the control rod??? I am not sure what rod your talking about???? The rod going to the "box" should make it raise IF that is what is controlling the header.
The way your header is wired will only work on one of the settings. If you have moved it off that setting your just skidding the header along without any lift. So you would need to try to make it raise in all four settings on the dial-a-matic dial. If it is working on the one setting it really is not that big of a deal to just use it that way. I bet that I do not use more than one setting all year.
As for putting the correct dial-a-matic control box on the header. It is simple really. You would need the control box and the small mounting bracket and the wiring harness. The harness on your other headers should be long enough to work. I would bet that you would find a bunch of wire wrapped up between the control box and the feeder house opening. The retro fit kits only had ONE harness in them. It was about twenty feet long and you just tied up the extra.
Here is a picture of how/where the dial-a-matic control box is located.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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