have looked at all the posts and I also think the Fords (4000) etc would be your fit. What hasn't been asked is what do you want it to be worth in 5 yrs in case you change situations ? Any "real tractor" (4000 Ford type) if kept in good repair will not cost you anything. Assuming you don't go overboard on price it will not go down. The "suburbanite" tractors....not so much. One will be an investment and the others are all still "expenses" and will be for a few years to come. Even the 1980,s real tractors are now investments. Everyone's situation changes sooner or later. Buy what will sell and what will sell for what you paid. You can't beat using a tractor for 5 yrs for free. Buddy of mine just bought a sweet little 444 International utility with IH loader/front aux. pump, and less than 2500 hrs. Brand new Firestones all around and all new loader hoses. A real looker and runs perfect. Everything works nice inc power steering. He can use this for 10 yrs and still get all his money back. He started out looking at used Kubotas. A 2002 "landscape tractor" with a punie loader and not enough weight/power to pull a frog off a rock still cost more than this IH. If you want absolutely zero repairs guaranteed then you will need to spend the $ 30,000 on a new "play tractor". $8000 will buy you a real tractor that will meet all your needs and as a bonus will HOLD it's value.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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