If you have an eye for grading, surface work like you are thinking about is the least expensive way to get the water to drain, that is if you can establish slope from the problem area. I spent a lot of time in the earthwork field and the experience of draining water on wet sites is valuable when it comes to this kind of work. I say that, because one can make a mess just the same, but if you can eyeball drainage by sloping with the bucket, not creating ponds/puddles and get the area near the edge of slab cleared out, sloped etc, you could have it fixed in no time. Other options are gravel, clean crushed stone, filter fabric/perforated pipe, depending on where you can run the pipe to and if you can establish pitch under the surface that will work.
If you fill in with gravel or clean crushed stone, without drainage, that will draw water because its so porous.
What have you for gutters and extensions draining it off away from the edge of slab ?
Hopefully just some corrective work with the loader, I've done that for years around the stable, its just the buildings, they were not built high enough.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor: Conclusion - by Anthony West. In the last piece I mentioned that Nuffield had reached the stage where they had chosen to drop the "Universal" from production. The two new models were given three figure numbers, instead of "three" and "four". Model numbers were introduced to help farmers and dealers instantly recognize the engine size and horsepower of the tractor, the 4/60 had a four cylinder diesel engine which developed 60 bhp at 2,000 rpm. The 3/42 had a 3 cylinder diesel engine which produced 42 bhp at 2,000 rpm. Th
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