Well i may as well throw in my 2 cents worth here . Is there a piece of flex pipe somewhere after the down pipe from the turbo?? Or is it solid from the turbo on back ??? How are the engine mounts ??? Where is the probe for the pyro , in the manifold before the turbo or after the turbo in the down pipe . If it is before the turbo then then 1200 on a hard pull is hitting the max , after the turbo she is getting really hot . just where are the studs breaking at out on the end like on 1-2 or 5-6 or on 3-4 If they are breaking on 3-4 holes it may be due to heat and the weight of the turbo and the pipe and a flex pipe that is semi frozen or the fact that there is no flex pipe and you have engine mounts that are working to much . Just some ideas to think about as i am no expert on the 3406 B's . I did 90% of my trucking either with OLD Detroits Cummins and a couple Mack's and one 3406E . Each and everyone of them were wound out to the max . The only engine that i ever had a problem with manifold bolts or studs was on a 460 gas Ford and that was due to it getting way to hot . I have never in my life ever met a truck driver , farmer , or race car driver or equipment operator that told me he had to much power and each and everyone would love to get just a little more .
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Oil, Oil Filter and Air Breather - by Curtis Von Fange. In the preceding articles we discussed some of the various aspects of doing a comprehensive tune up. Hopefully some light was shed on why we do or don't do certain things pertaining to inspections and order of events when doing a tune up. Perhaps some useful reasons were given for why parts fail and what to do about preventing part failure in the future. All these tips will help us think and reason out a problem in order to make our tune up last and, hopefully, keep us from spending extra mone
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