Also remember there is a "fluff" factor. When soil is excavated and loose, depending on its type and how it compacts, there is a 10%-20% more volume when loose. If you take the area you have and measure the square footage of the fill area, then take the average dimension of fill you'll need to make the final grade elevation you want, and multiply it by the even number, (say its 3 feet) you'll have cubic feet. There are 27 cubic feet in 1 cubic yard, so multiply the cubic feet you have by 27 and that will give you total yardage, then add the percentage of "fluff" to that to allow for compaction, and you'll be very close on the total yardage you will need. On the math, remember to keep the units of measure the same, so if you had 1'-4" remaining to fill, take the 4" divide by 12 (12" in 1 foot) so muliply your square footage by 1.33 to get the cubic footage, then multiply that by 27 and add in the extra percentage of fluff for compaction.
On site plans, they take the area topographically, say with marked contour intervals of elevation and make a grid over it. Each square in the grid will either be in a cut or fill that can be quantified and tallied on an estimation form. They will then review, overlay final elevations, then calculate the cuts to establish the excavated material quantity, and add the fluff percentage of that material. Then they calculate the fill areas, to determine how much fill is needed from the cuts, remaining may be exported off site. In squares where there is both cuts and fills or the contour intervals change etc. an estimator may average them out or caculate more precisely for a more accurate number. Its been years since I've done site work estimation, but that is the "gist" of it LOL !
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Your Tractor - by Staff. Maybe you bought it from a friend who didn't know what kind of tractor it was, or perhaps (and this is every tractor fanatics dream) you stumbled across it in an abandoned field covered with weeds but intact. In any case, you have no idea what the make and/or model is. For awhile perhaps it doesn't really matter. Especially if it runs! But pretty soon you'll probably need to tinker with it a bit and maybe buy a part or too. Having a manual is nice. But how does one go about dete
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