We had a 4010 with the M&W turbo. It was turning somewhere in the neighborhood of 115 to 120 hp. It didn't have the high capacity oil pan or any mods to the cooling system. Made a great wagon hauler, either hay or forage wagons. However, a 4010 is only a 10,000 lb tractor with the tires loaded. For tillage work without duel wheels it was spinning the wheels like a pulling tractor all the time and had a tendency to overheat. Even though the 4010 had more power, I preferred our OEM 4020 for tillage work. Less hassles with traction and overheating issues.
The 4010 made one heck of a tractor to put on the silo blower, though! Used to open the 4010 throttle up to the override position, turning the blower just as fast as you could, opened the self-unloading wagon up and let-er-rip!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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