Putting a turbo on a 4010 Deere

I am wanting to put a turbo on this tractor. I am wondering if I get a exhaust manifold off of a 4320 if it would bolt up. Looked at the new M&W system but I don't want to pay for the tractor again and only get a turbo.

Thanks for your input
Bud

We have a 4010 w/turbo that we keep around for mostly fun these days. If memory serves me right, with a turbo and a little head work, it makes around 150hp and it is
still used sometimes in the field when needed. I think it is using either a 4320 or 4430 manifold with a new turbo.

I make them up from 4430 manifolds and 4320 muffler elbow, here are some pics to help you..Mail me if you want info..

I have a M&W turbo kit on my 4010 but the pump isn't turned up much. It was pulling right at 94HP when I broke it in on the Dyno. It has about 1000 hours on it since the overhaul but I have not put it on the dyno since. I like it in that it doesn't put out any excess smoke even when under full load.

I never really liked M&W kits, and even these kits I make up you need to tweak the pump a bit to get 130hp,,and that is about where the 4020's work well at, much more and the radiator and clutch get over worked,,like the old timers would say "Faster Horses need better wagons"

Where can you get a new M&W Turbo kit they have been out of business for years

Why on Earth would anyone want to put a turbo on a 4010. Dad had
a 4010-D from Dec, 1968 to about August '72. After having the
self-proclaimed "Best Deere Mechanic in the Midwest" tune it up, a
'63 4010 w/4020 kit in it already was probably making 65-70 HP.
When it finally started struggling pulling a 12 ft Kewanee disk in
plowed ground in 5th gear and a 4-14 Case pull type plow in 4th
Dad had a true expert come over one night and rebuild the pump.
Some HACK had ground the ends of the leaf spring in the pump to
get it to act like a stiffer spring, but ground one side more than
the other. Three alternating cylinders running at half throttle
and the other 3 at full load. With the rebuilt pump set for 100-
105 HP I could pull that little disk in 7th gear if I wanted to!

After about 50-60 hours after the pump rebuild the head gasket
blew. Replaced the head gasket and ran maybe 20 more hours, then
took it to the shop the pump expert owned and did a complete major
O/H with M&W sleeves/pistons, turned pump down to 95 HP, ran
tractor maybe 75-80 hours and the PTO went out running a 6 ft bush
hog, so back to the experts shop. PTO & engine clutch both
replaced, tractor SOLD to local kid, M&W turbo installed, piston
cooling jets were installed at rebuild, and about a year later the
kid came to complain about a total transmission/final drive
failure and rebuild and see how much of the bill Dad was going to
pay! The kid got an education on what "as is, where is, no
warrantee" meant on a used 10 year old tractor. This tractor was
the Big Horse on a 160 acre livestock farm. It plowed with 4-14's,
12 ft disk, cultivated with 4RW frt mount cultivator, and pulled
the JD #30 combine over 30-40 acres of oats every summer, and sat
in the shed 6-8 months of the year. Only used 160-180 hours a
year, never came close to a loader. Never started from Labor Day
till Easter unless we were able to fall plow which we only did two
years.

Most people agree the 1010 & 2010 are frail, but in my opinion,
the 4010 is worse! The list of problems with that 4010 is actually
MUCH MUCH longer, absolute Money Pit! The tractor had the factory
15.5 rear tires with 60% tread left when Dad bought it at 4-5
years old. I suspect the thing made 120-125 HP after the turbo and
didn't last a year. And it's not like 65-70 HP for 3-4+ years or
more and 100 HP pulling 3010 sized implements for a year should
have hurt it. Tractor got repainted and all 4 new tires before it
was ever taken to the field. And then the breakdowns and repairs
started!

Save yourself a LOT of headaches, turbo a 4020, about 1/3 of them
around home got turbo's, and held up much better.

What amazes me, the neighbor across the road farmed 240 acres for
two years with just a 560 FARMALL gas as his only tractor, then
320 acres for 2-3 years still only using the 560 and NEVER had a
problem with the tractor pulling 4-14's & 14 ft disk. That tractor
did EVERTHING except pick corn, guy had a 203 IH combine, plow,
disk, plant, cultivate, spray, even mow/rake hay the one year he
raised hay, 560 did everything!

Have a 4020 in the shed, same story, complete money pit!!! The old guy bought it new in 68, he was looking to buy an 1100 Massey, but the dealer wanted a little more money than what the Deere dealer wanted for the 4020. He complains yet at least twice a year he should have bought that Massey, and I laugh, they say you get what you pay for! LOL

Father in law had two mid-60's 4020's with M&W turbos with pumps at stock settings as far as I know. Each one had somewhere in the 10000 hour range and had only had clutch jobs done to them. They ran those things day and night during field work season. But again, as far as I know the pumps were not turned up.

A far far different experience than what we had with our 4010 diesel that was purchased factory new. Other than batteries and the 12V update kit we have spent very little on it aside from normal things such as oil and tires. It started its career here as the main tractor on a dairy farm pulling 4-16's in heavy ground and powering a 2 row chopper. When the cows left it still did most of the tillage, planting, and baling here. I love a good 806 diesel but the 560's around here did a quick transition from regular farm tractor to weekend warrior tractor because there were better options out there.

We had a 4010 with the M&W turbo. It was turning somewhere in the neighborhood of 115 to 120 hp. It didn't have the high capacity oil pan or any mods to the cooling system. Made a great wagon hauler, either hay or forage wagons. However, a 4010 is only a 10,000 lb tractor with the tires loaded. For tillage work without duel wheels it was spinning the wheels like a pulling tractor all the time and had a tendency to overheat. Even though the 4010 had more power, I preferred our OEM 4020 for tillage work. Less hassles with traction and overheating issues.

The 4010 made one heck of a tractor to put on the silo blower, though! Used to open the 4010 throttle up to the override position, turning the blower just as fast as you could, opened the self-unloading wagon up and let-er-rip!

I have put many turbos on 4010/4020/4230's and they have been pulling their way for years, that engine was "over engineered" back then, they use the same rod and main bearing that the newer larger tractors use. 120hp with out turbo and 140 with turbo are well with in reason on these models...and I know for various reasons like abuse or lack of proper knowledge can lead to a bad experience with any tractor..

Thanks for all the info! I am not planning on using the tractor for much at all. I might pull a packer with it once a year if the weather is nice and I am not in a big hurry. I am just playing with it as a toy and thought it would be neat to have a turbo.

Contact me when your ready to do it,, I will share some of my ideas with you,,I have had a lot of experience with them and I like to see they put together neat and work ready..

get the engine from a 7020 as it has the turbo , same engine as 4020 just turbo'd.

Actually there were several different versions of the 404 engine and the ones with the small pump work out better in a 4020 because of the better low end power they offer,, the 7020 has the big pump and and was strong when run at higher RPM's but doggy on low RPM's the best up grade engine for a 4020 is a 4240 engine then turbo that..466cid and great low end power plus it will fit in nice and clean..and this engine was in 6620 combines so they are readily available..in the $3500 range..