There should be a terminal on the starter switch, not the relay, that is marker either I or ING. You should have a wire from that terminal that goes directly to the coil if you have a "no resistor required" coil. You may have a resistor in line on that wire with the other type coil. On some automotive applications they used 2 wires to the coil, one directly from the ignition terminal on the on the coil with a resistor in line and another from the ignition terminal on the starter relay to the coil with no resistor. That way it provided full battery voltage to the coil during the cranking cycle and then cut back the volt via the in line resistor once running. You do not need that type of setup on a tractor unless delivered from the factory that way.
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Today's Featured Article - The Engine Rebuild Kit - by Curtis Von Fange. I always liked engine rebuild kits. They have all the replacement parts for overhauling an engine without going to the store to get gaskets, special measuring tools, or miscellaneous parts. They come neatly packaged, clean and tidy. But it's important not to let that packaging lull you into a false sense of security. The appearance of matching sleeves, pistons, rings, and bearings can cause frustration and agony if not properly measured and installed in a workshop environment. Following c
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