If the only appliances on the circuit are the fridge and microwave, and the breaker doesn't trip when using the microwave, the problem just about has to be either the fridge or the breaker.
Easiest place to start would be replace the breaker. Also look at the buss bar in the breaker panel where the breaker attaches, be sure the connection is good.
If the problem continues, you'll need to check the fridge. Check for the obvious first, clogged coils, condenser and evaporator fans free and working, pinched, rubbed, chewed wiring.
You'll need an amprobe to test the run and defrost circuits. Find the info tag and note the amp draw specification. With the compressor running, be sure the amperage is not exceeding the rated amps. If so there is a problem with the compressor or a fan or some component that runs when the system calls for cooling.
If that tests good, find the defrost timer. It's usually under the front cover at the bottom, or in back. With the amprobe in place, slowly rotate the timer overide until the defrost cycle starts. Watch the amp reading, see if it exceeds the tag ratings or exceeds the 20 amp breaker rating. If so there is a problem in the defrost, probably a shorted heating element.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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