Very few true working horses around anymore, lots of barrel shaped pasture pets that I would not want to hook to my wagon without a defibrillator handy.
If your animals are not race horses in training or real work horses [hooked up and pulling on a regular basis] then like most, you will be overfeeding them.
Like others have said avoid moldy/dusty hay for the horses as there respiratory system can be more sensitive than a cows, having your feed tested is cheap and it tells you what you have, anything less and you are just guessing.
In deciding what to seed you also have to take into account the long term impact on the soil.
Do you want to be putting down expensive fertilizer?
Or do you seed some alfalfa/legume with it and get your nitrogen fix naturally.
Many of our horses have actually put on weight during the winter on plain old cow hay even with a nasty winter like we just went through with plenty of minus 30 - minus 40 weeks. They get bored and it seems they will eat cause it's there and they have nothing better to do.
So judging how much to feed them based on how much they eat does not work either.
Making good hay in theory is a science, but in reality until you can control the weather it's nothing more than luck.
Let the alfalfa go past bloom the protien and quality will drop some and the yield will go up, exactly what you want.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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