Depends on where the break is at... Generally speaking if you want to make it strong, I'd disassemble the axle and probably do some preheating on it... make an oven of brick and heat it with a tiger torch.. As far as prep of the parts you should always bevel out so you get good penetration. Rod size and amperage is going to depend on thickness of material. I'd normally use 1/8" but if it's real heavy you'll need more.
You should also NOTE... I THINK that axle is cast steel but I'm not 100% certain on that... so I'd probably spark up a bead somewhere ELSE on the axle and see how it responds to the rod. If it's not accepting weld, GIVE UP. Then you can revert to either a Ni-Rod repair or brazing the hunk back in place. If you do find that it's an iron part... THEN I'd probably be inclined to braze it unless you know of someone who can gas weld cast iron using a cast iron filler. Arc welding cast iron on that scale is difficult as it's very difficult to prevent cracking as it cools. Brazing is not such a problem as it doesn't get as hot... and the brass is just as strong as the iron anyway.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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