Depends on where the break is at... Generally speaking if you want to make it strong, I'd disassemble the axle and probably do some preheating on it... make an oven of brick and heat it with a tiger torch.. As far as prep of the parts you should always bevel out so you get good penetration. Rod size and amperage is going to depend on thickness of material. I'd normally use 1/8" but if it's real heavy you'll need more.
You should also NOTE... I THINK that axle is cast steel but I'm not 100% certain on that... so I'd probably spark up a bead somewhere ELSE on the axle and see how it responds to the rod. If it's not accepting weld, GIVE UP. Then you can revert to either a Ni-Rod repair or brazing the hunk back in place. If you do find that it's an iron part... THEN I'd probably be inclined to braze it unless you know of someone who can gas weld cast iron using a cast iron filler. Arc welding cast iron on that scale is difficult as it's very difficult to prevent cracking as it cools. Brazing is not such a problem as it doesn't get as hot... and the brass is just as strong as the iron anyway.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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