Best way to rejoin cast metal

Anonymous-0 · Mar 17, 2014

What are some options to rejoin cast metal that will hold for a while until I an find a junk yard part?

I know cast can be welded, tried before and it's a challenge, what are liquid metal bonding agents are out there. I know there is good old JB weld, what else, any better?

paul · Mar 17, 2014

Dad could do well with brazing.

I got more wood skills, never did as good as him with metals. Dads repairs never looked good at all, but they would do and hold up mostly.

Paul

Alan K · Mar 17, 2014

What are you trying to join? With the stress that would possibly be on the metal I don't think there would be any metal bonding agent that would stand up to it. Depending on what it is you could possibly drill and tap the part and bolt it together.

Bob Huntress · Mar 17, 2014

I've had reasonable success on gas engine block using nickle rod.

IH2444 · Mar 17, 2014

(quoted from post at 00:33:56 03/18/14) What are some options to rejoin cast metal that will hold for a while until I an find a junk yard part?

I know cast can be welded, tried before and it's a challenge, what are liquid metal bonding agents are out there. I know there is good old JB weld, what else, any better?

First question is. Is it cast iron or cast steel?

NEsota · Mar 17, 2014

My personal experience is very limited but my understanding is that it is best to get all of the cast material up to a high temperature, maybe using wood for fuel, doing the weld, then cooling very slowly and uniformly. Hot ashes can be used to smother the entire piece in and to keep the cooler air away. It will take hours for it to cool evenly.

Dr. Walt · Mar 18, 2014

It depends on several factors:

1. Type of Metal - Cast Steel, Cast Iron, Brass, Bronze, Aluminum, Pot Metal, . . . WHAT?

2. Size of part to be repaired - Large part usually no problem; Small part depends on Type of Metal - if it's a small part and Pot Metal, GOOD LUCK.

3. Many different ways of making repairs: Soldering, Brazing, Torch Welding with Aluminum, Ferrous or Nickel filler rod, Arc Welding, Epoxies such as JB Weld or Metal Filled Epoxies such as Liquid Steel, or Drilling & "Stitching" such as on a cracked Block.

4. How much STRESS will the repair undergo during use?

ohiojim · Mar 18, 2014

I'm only a hobby welder but the local welder here,.."and he was a good one" told me if you want to weld cast use a cast rod..

jon f mn · Mar 18, 2014

Post a picture of what your working with. Without that it's all a guess.

David G · Mar 18, 2014

There is a big difference between patching and having structural integrity. The best method is to heat it in a forge and weld it.

I would not count on any structural integrity.

dr sportster · Mar 18, 2014

Sometimes the search for the new part is time well spent. My dads complex had a plow knock down a light pole . I thought I could try to weld it at the shattered base but figured if it breaks and falls on someones head I would not be wise [ a freebee too]. The plow guy ordered a new fixture. A picture of your part would get better responses.

NCWayne · Mar 18, 2014

As others have stated already, it's hard to say what process will work best without knowing what the part is made of, and basically what it does. We've got one guy on here, George in Maryland, that is one of the best guys I've ever seen at torch welding cast iron. In my case I've never torch welded it, but learned to braze years ago and have always had good luck making cast iron repairs that way. As far as cast steel, with the proper rod, and the proper preheat and cool down, it can be repaired as good as new. In either case, done properly, the repair should be as strong, and in some cases, stronger than the base metal so there would be no need to find another part. On the other hand, if the piece is pot metal, then good luck getting it repaired and anywhere even close to as strong as the original.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 18, 2014

Thanks for the replies

I am wanting to fix an axle on a fordson dextra tractor. It is by behind the tire end. A section has come out and I want to temp "stick " back together. It s 60's era tractornsomim guessing it is not pot metal but could be wrong.

I would fix and then place a metal band around the axle end as a added strength that I can apply tension too much like a pipe clamp.

Thanks

NCWayne · Mar 18, 2014

I've brazed the axel housings on several tractors and never had a problem with any of them. One I did for a neighbor and that tractor is still running nearly 14 years later, without any problems. The only one I know of that did break again was on a compact tractor. In that case the owner basically screwed up again and shocked/overloaded it by trying to jerk something out of the ground. Like I told him when I repaired it the first time it would do, the new break didn't happen where I repaired it, but broke several inches away in fresh metal again. Like I said before, a proper repair will be just as strong, or stronger than the original metal was, so there's no real need for a new piece unless you just want to have it on stand by...just in case...

RodinNS · Mar 18, 2014

I had a Dexta. That axle... I suspect it cast steel. It should weld fine with ye humble ole 7018. Nickle rods like the Sodel 35 will also work. The bigger problem you're going to have, depending on how it's broken... is controlling distortion. Weld small beads, generally at opposing sides of the break in opposite directions.

Rod

donjr · Mar 18, 2014

Go over on the 'crawler' and 'tool' forum and ask for "georgemd" and ask him that question. He's very good at it and can probably answer your question. He's usually on in the late afternoon or early evening.....

Anonymous-0 · Mar 18, 2014

Hi, did you braze with axles on or did you disassemble and do it?

Anonymous-0 · Mar 18, 2014

Thanks for tips:

In terms of prep and process please give furher guidance.

Can I weld all in place on tractor or do I need to take axle off?

Do I need to heat up the area to be welded? How warm

Should I grind a weld groove or just surface weld?

Thanks for tip on small beads, will do and spread out to prevent distortion.

What amperage are we talking on a stick welder for 7018 rod for this task. ( done enough welding to know what I'm doing, just not so much on cast metal) How about nickel rods ( never used)

Any other pointers?

Cheers

Anonymous-0 · Mar 18, 2014

I don't mean to offend you but if you have to ask all these questions, it's probably not a good idea to try and repair it yourself. Talk to someone who is experienced with this type of repair.

RodinNS · Mar 19, 2014

Depends on where the break is at... Generally speaking if you want to make it strong, I'd disassemble the axle and probably do some preheating on it... make an oven of brick and heat it with a tiger torch.. As far as prep of the parts you should always bevel out so you get good penetration.
Rod size and amperage is going to depend on thickness of material. I'd normally use 1/8" but if it's real heavy you'll need more.

You should also NOTE... I THINK that axle is cast steel but I'm not 100% certain on that... so I'd probably spark up a bead somewhere ELSE on the axle and see how it responds to the rod. If it's not accepting weld, GIVE UP. Then you can revert to either a Ni-Rod repair or brazing the hunk back in place. If you do find that it's an iron part... THEN I'd probably be inclined to braze it unless you know of someone who can gas weld cast iron using a cast iron filler. Arc welding cast iron on that scale is difficult as it's very difficult to prevent cracking as it cools. Brazing is not such a problem as it doesn't get as hot... and the brass is just as strong as the iron anyway.

Rod

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