That's the ones I am familiar with and have had pretty good luck with them NOT sticking closed, and some of the systems are on some rather nasty well water, and some run antifreeze. Generally the only problem I've had to deal with is them sticking OPEN, as I wrote about before, or an occasional motor failure.
Is it possible the 24 Volt transformer that operates the valves is weak, or there is voltage drop in the circuitry somewhere, not giving full power to the motors? (Or are they the more rare 120 Volt units?)
When you say you are turning on the "nut" to loosen them, do you mean the flats on the stainless steel stem that the operator fits over?
When you have replaced parts, did you replace the valve kit, or the whole valve, or the operator?
If the operator has not been replaced, either by itself, or as part of a complete valve, I would really wonder if it is not actually the motor or gear train that is sticking, as I have never seen the stainless stem stick so tight in it's brass bushing a good operator couldn't open it.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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