You're on the right track testing for drain with the test light. A volt meter is going to show volts even with a minimal draw, as in the memory circuits in the radio, ECM, etc.
If you want to attach a number to it, you will need a DC amp meter, connected just as you connect the test light.
I'm wondering if something is interlocking and causing the drain. The interlocked load remains until you disconnect the battery cable to connect the test light, that breaks the circuit, the load goes away, so you get a false test with the light.
Something to try, connect the battery, start it up, drive it, shut it off. Then in a dark area,carefully watch as you pull the battery cable and see if there is a one time spark. If there is a underhood light, disconnect it before you start this test.
If you do have access to a DC amp meter, do the above test, but have the amp meter leads connected BEFORE you break the battery connection so the amp meter will carry the uninterrupted load.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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