Farm truck--electrical problem?

Jiles · Jan 30, 2014

I have a 2005 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 with 4L engine and AT.
From experience, I know that electrical problems can be more difficult to find then any other problem!
My problem is with a slow drain on battery.
Battery will be pull down to a no start, just click, within four days. I know I have an electrical drain because having the battery at full charge and disconnecting it for ONE WEEK results in virtually no discharge. Hook it back up and within four days it's a no start!
I can disconnect the ground cable and disarm the interior light and the test light--hooked between negative battery post and the ground cable--- glows [b:42ba36ec19]VERY[/b:42ba36ec19] dim.
This is with the radio fuse removed.
I know that the PCM takes a certain amount of voltage, but from past experience, the voltage draw is so small it will barely make the test light glow---if at all.
I don't see how the small amount of voltage drain could pull the battery down in four days?

teddy52food · Jan 30, 2014

How old is the battery? What does a load test show?

Jiles · Jan 30, 2014

(quoted from post at 19:09:31 01/30/14) How old is the battery? What does a load test show?

Being a former certified mechanic that was the first problem source eliminated--Two different batteries, one new, same results.

glennster · Jan 30, 2014

check the glove box door lamp. my daughters z-71 would do random dead batterys. finally found the latch would not always close tight, and the lamp would stay on. pulled the bulb. another thing to check, does the horn work? if not, posibly the horn switch is stuck leaving the relay energized. just a couple thoughts.

Glen SW Wi · Jan 30, 2014

Pull one fuse at a time. You should be able to at least find which circuit is causing the problem.

Jiles · Jan 30, 2014

(quoted from post at 19:53:31 01/30/14) Pull one fuse at a time. You should be able to at least find which circuit is causing the problem.

Did that and the only fuse that makes the VERY DIM LIGHT go out is the Auxiliary Power Socket Left fuse out and battery still lost voltage.
Yes--I know sure sounds like a bad battery, but like I stated, I bought a new battery, thinking that was the problem, kept the old battery, and both act the same.
I think I will try another Battery anyway.
Can someone advise me as to how I hook up tester to determine the amount of voltage draw.
I can hook my Fluke meter between battery and ground cable and it reads full voltage like 12.98 volts.

BushogPapa · Jan 30, 2014

LOAD Test those batteries and see if thy are not Both Bad.. (just to be SURE).

Not all that uncommon for a rather "new" battery to loose a cell..

Ron.

Jiles · Jan 30, 2014

(quoted from post at 20:32:42 01/30/14)
LOAD Test those batteries and see if thy are not Both Bad.. (just to be SURE).

Not all that uncommon for a rather "new" battery to loose a cell..

Ron.

In my thinking---ability to start truck, like Five crankings in a row, is a Load Test, is it not??

Welding man · Jan 30, 2014

Wifes Escort kept doing the same thing, Air conditioning(Defrost) relay was sticking keeping the compressor clutch engaged. Replaced the AC compressor relay. Problem solved.

Steve@Advance · Jan 30, 2014

You're on the right track testing for drain with the test light. A volt meter is going to show volts even with a minimal draw, as in the memory circuits in the radio, ECM, etc.

If you want to attach a number to it, you will need a DC amp meter, connected just as you connect the test light.

I'm wondering if something is interlocking and causing the drain. The interlocked load remains until you disconnect the battery cable to connect the test light, that breaks the circuit, the load goes away, so you get a false test with the light.

Something to try, connect the battery, start it up, drive it, shut it off. Then in a dark area,carefully watch as you pull the battery cable and see if there is a one time spark. If there is a underhood light, disconnect it before you start this test.

If you do have access to a DC amp meter, do the above test, but have the amp meter leads connected BEFORE you break the battery connection so the amp meter will carry the uninterrupted load.

Jiles · Jan 30, 2014

(quoted from post at 21:39:56 01/30/14) You're on the right track testing for drain with the test light. A volt meter is going to show volts even with a minimal draw, as in the memory circuits in the radio, ECM, etc.

If you want to attach a number to it, you will need a DC amp meter, connected just as you connect the test light.

I'm wondering if something is interlocking and causing the drain. The interlocked load remains until you disconnect the battery cable to connect the test light, that breaks the circuit, the load goes away, so you get a false test with the light.

Something to try, connect the battery, start it up, drive it, shut it off. Then in a dark area,carefully watch as you pull the battery cable and see if there is a one time spark. If there is a underhood light, disconnect it before you start this test.

If you do have access to a DC amp meter, do the above test, but have the amp meter leads connected BEFORE you break the battery connection so the amp meter will carry the uninterrupted load.

While pulling fuses and watching test light, one particular fuse would brighten the light and a fast chatter could be heard in dash for just a mili-second then the light would dim. It would do this every time the fuse was pulled.

gab · Jan 30, 2014

You need some kind of switch to put between the neg batt post and the cable, this ones made for a side terminal batt with a short cable added. digital volt ohm meter on 10 amps, one lead clipped to each side off the green knob. let it set awhile for the modules to calm down, loosen the knob. You're looking for less than about 25 milli amps.

Bob · Jan 30, 2014

I'm NOT sure if this extends up to 2005, but in the mid-nineties on up, the common problem was the dome light switches.

They are not a "pin switch" visible sticking out of the door post for the door to hit when closed.

They are cleverly hidden inside the doors on the actual door latches.

They get dirt/moisture/road salt in them and slowly drain the battery.

If you pull the dome light bulbs the battery still drains because the switches stay powered up, connected to relay(s) and/or the GEM module.

If your 2005 is set up that way, the switches are very likely the problem.

I have replaces a number of them for customers, but on my old 1995 parts runner Exploder, I simply pulled the wire connecters off of all the switches, including inside the rear hatch.

Ended the problem, and the dome lights still work on manual.

Jiles · Jan 30, 2014

(quoted from post at 22:58:05 01/30/14) I'm NOT sure if this extends up to 2005, but in the mid-nineties on up, the common problem was the dome light switches.

They are not a "pin switch" visible sticking out of the door post for the door to hit when closed.

They are cleverly hidden inside the doors on the actual door latches.

They get dirt/moisture/road salt in them and slowly drain the battery.

If you pull the dome light bulbs the battery still drains because the switches stay powered up, connected to relay(s) and/or the GEM module.

If your 2005 is set up that way, the switches are very likely the problem.

I have replaces a number of them for customers, but on my old 1995 parts runner Exploder, I simply pulled the wire connecters off of all the switches, including inside the rear hatch.

Ended the problem, and the dome lights still work on manual.

Bob--My truck has this set up. I had to close the latch with a screwdriver to not activate interior light while conducting tests.
Thanks for the tip, problem could very well may be the door switches.

barnE · Jan 30, 2014

Feel alternator first thing in morning should not be warm. If it is you know what to look for. Good batt load test. Crank with voltmeter on terminals. Should be at least 9 volts or more. Dave

fixerupper · Jan 30, 2014

(quoted from post at 17:27:58 01/30/14) Feel alternator first thing in morning should not be warm. If it is you know what to look for. Good batt load test. Crank with voltmeter on terminals. Should be at least 9 volts or more. Dave

just went through the same battery drain problem with a 98 Dodge. It was the alternator as Barn e suggests. You can remove the big cable from the alternator and rub it on the terminal it came off of. If it sparks you might have found the problem. Jim

john *.?-!.* cub owner · Jan 30, 2014

What about add ons? Do you have a GPS, possibly with a bad battery that keeps trying to charge, or a backup camera in it? I have a wireless camera that I use for hitching trailers, and the monitor on standby will drain the battery in about 8 or 10 days.

da.bees · Jan 30, 2014

What Steve is suggesting will tell you how many AMPS are being drawn. Amps are what drains power not volts. Your test light is dim because it is sharing 12 volts with the phantom load. Using the amp meter will let you know when you disconect circuit that's drawing 1 amp @ 12 volts and shows .050 amp @12 volts drawn by ptcm.

Jiles · Jan 31, 2014

Followup---Just found the source of power drain, only one problem--- the 10A fuse is NOT USED, according to owners manual!!
And, I think they are correct because I can find anything that doesn't work.
Typical automotive electrical problem!!
Now What????

Farm truck--electrical problem?

Jiles

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teddy52food

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Jiles

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glennster

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Glen SW Wi

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Steve@Advance

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