Depending on the power connector you used, the power is always in a center rail and in an outer rail. Which outer rail depends. To use the ohm meter, refer to the picture, but you check to see if you have conductivity at matching letters, none between different letters, and check by your locomotive over. In this case, having two good and two bad switches, it is simplified in that you use the good one to know how it should behave. I think the each of the 3 rails are isolated from each other.
In this case, the short occurs either due to a locomotive wheel or center roller/shoe (with 1980's vintage, probably a shoe), but the turnout is got something wrong with it, as the shoe/roller/wheel shouldn't cause the short.
I know it can be figured out this way, as I fixed one once just playing with it till I found the problem, then drilled out the rivets, flied it up side down and soldered in a bit of wire on one. Sadly, that was a 2 or 3 years ago, and till thanksgiving, I'm 100+ miles away from it.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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