No, they are all like that. They all just drop in. You don't have to do anything. The reason those things go bad is that there is a snap ring and shims to tighten the wheel bearings. Lots of guys running on asphalt or hard packed stone all day will really put a bruising on them, and never re-shim the hubs. Then it wears them out.
Don't be alarmed. When you get the bearings shimmed correctly, there is no worries.
I've done a whole bunch of those. The other big thing with those machines is that the chain cases bend where the rear hubs attach and then the hubs ride crooked and it wears out the chains. Torches and a small ram on a port-a-power and about 6 hours takes care of that.
It's also a good idea to slather the bottoms of the studs with grease before you slide the hub on. That's a big rust problem area on those machines when they get older.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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