NH SL160 skidsteer loose fitting bearing races

Cas

Well-known Member
I am working on a New Holland skidsteer. The owner gave me a new wheel drive hub and wheel bearing set. Got parts from NH dealer. The race of the bearing drops into hub easily. I did not have to drive it in. Measured clearance it was .00075 inch. Dealer told me to use loctite blue to tighten up the fit. I Have used loctite blue on nuts and bolts works good. But, I am having trouble with the idea of cementing in a race instead of pressing in. Any advise is appreciated.
On my Case 1845 we have changed wheel bearings and race presses in with quite a bit of pressure.
 
Given the situation Loctite Blue isn't even close to what you need. If it was mine, or a customers that wanted to 'get by' with it, and it wasn't just plain sloppy, here's what I'd do. First take a center punch and put multiple punches around the portion of the hub where the bearing sets. Essentially what you are doing is to hand knurl it. What happens is that each punch mark slightly increases the diameter of the shaft with the material pushed out of the center of the punch mark. Once you get that done to where the bearing won't just slip on, coat the inner diameter of the bearing with GREEN Locktite that is designed to be used as a bearing retaining compound. That stuff will actually fill a decent sized gap and will lock the bearing down like it needs to be.
 
There's a couple different bearing retainers. Some require heat to remove. Look on the package to see how much gap they will fill.
 
No, they are all like that. They all just drop in. You don't have to do anything. The reason those things go bad is that there is a snap ring and shims to tighten the wheel bearings. Lots of guys running on asphalt or hard packed stone all day will really put a bruising on them, and never re-shim the hubs. Then it wears them out.


Don't be alarmed. When you get the bearings shimmed correctly, there is no worries.


I've done a whole bunch of those. The other big thing with those machines is that the chain cases bend where the rear hubs attach and then the hubs ride crooked and it wears out the chains. Torches and a small ram on a port-a-power and about 6 hours takes care of that.


It's also a good idea to slather the bottoms of the studs with grease before you slide the hub on. That's a big rust problem area on those machines when they get older.
 

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