I have used an old, worn out plywood blade in my circular saw, installed backwards. The teeth are now worn almost smooth from cutting LOTS of sheet metal. It will make good cuts, but it does it by melting the sheet metal, which burns the paint or galvanizing at the cut. That hasn"t seemed to matter much, but it seemed like a place that might rust. Also it is extremely loud and the process throws sparks of molten metal. It will sure make a plastic case circular saw look ugly from the hot metal bits sticking to it. But it works, it is cheap and as accurate as the operator of the circular saw can make it.
However the cuts made with a shear by the metal supplier are MUCH nicer. When I am going to order sheet metal, I measure very carefully for each piece and make a drawing of what lengths are supposed to go where. Still there are always a few places that end up needing cuts at the building site.
I have tried tinsnips and still use them for some things, but I have a hard time matching the accuracy and speed of using the circular saw, especially when crossing ribs.
Safety gear is a must! Ear protection, GOOD eye protection (and maybe a face shield) and heavy gloves are necessary. And I wouldn"t plan wearing the clothes you wear while cutting to town afterwards! Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of David Brown - by Samuel Kennedy. I was born in 1950 and reared on my family�s 100 acre farm. It was a fairly typical Northern Ireland farm where the main enterprise was dairying but some pigs, poultry and sheep were also kept. Potatoes were grown for sale and oats were grown to be used for cattle and horse feeding. Up to about 1958 the dairy cows were fed hay with some turnips and after that grass silage was the main winter feed. That same year was the last in which flax was grown on the farm. Flax provided the fibre which w
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