Best saw blade for cutting barn tin/steel?

Justin SE IOWA · May 29, 2013

Im gonna put a new roof on my barn this summer and I am wondering what is the best method of cutting. I have been told to use my skill saw with the blade in backwards. Fine or coarse tooth blade? Does it matter? I know they make a blade made for cutting barn steel but have heard it don't work well. What works best for you?

Dachshund · May 29, 2013

Tin snips - saves on hearing....

hoof print · May 29, 2013

I use a diamond masonary bit in my circular saw (and ear
muffs). Worked good

G1355 · May 29, 2013

If your using your skill saw, use a fine tooth blade, they work
good for tin or sheet metal.

gbs · May 29, 2013

use at your own risk,be sure to use the best safety glasses you can get,standard cheap combination blade turned backwards DON'T USE A CARBIDE TIP BLADE,it will through pieces of carbide when trying to cut backwards,watch out for the safety police

Bill in IL · May 29, 2013

A circular saw blade backwards makes a terrible cut. It will knock the carbide tips off and throw them as well ruining a good blade. I tried it once will NEVER never do it again.

For about 40 bucks buy a ferrous metal cutting circular saw blade and go to work. They make some fine tooth ones up to 80 teeth for sheet steel but I have just used my 40 tooth one with good results. The work excellent cutting thick steel too. Just be sure to cover up well cause the chips from the blade are dangerous. They are not too bad from thin sheet steel but terrible from thicker material.

Greg1959 · May 29, 2013

Blade in backwards will work but it destroys the the blade. Also, I recommend using a 'full face shield'. I looked like I was shot with "bird shot" when I was done. When I do it again, I will use tin snipes (electric or manual) to do the job.

HTH

Frank 41 · May 29, 2013

The best saw is a Milwaukee. It will not cut welds. It has a good warranty and not too high off the net. After mine was stolen, I bought one from some welding outfit, I think in NY. It was a piece of junk, heavy, threw metal, and wouldn"t cut bin flooring without throwing the overload. It had a 9" blade which was the main reason I bought it. I got POed and threw it out of the bin on concrete. Then went and got the Milwaukee. If you want to go cheap, just put a regular blade in backwards. Wear ear plugs and glasses.

Phlash in OK · May 29, 2013

The best way I have found is use a cutoff blade in an angle grinder. They are available very thin and in sizes to fit 4 to 7 in grinders

omahagreg · May 29, 2013

http://www.homelectrical.com/7-14-4...extag&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=CSE

Not promoting the seller, just wanted a picture! Boss brought me one of these from Lowes-I did not want to try it! Used it once, now I am a believer! Clean cut, very little 'spray', impressed!

Justin SE IOWA · May 29, 2013

Are the pneumatic powered shears good to use? Im pretty sure my brother has one I could barrow.

JerryS · May 29, 2013

Do like others have said and get a metal blade for your circular saw, or go to the chinese tool store and get a dual saw---two blades going in opposite direction. I have one and it works; good for other rough hog-out jobs too.

Or as a third option, just use your circular saw with a regular blade. Well, not really, but they will cut metal. Couple of weeks ago I was using my tail-gate as a sawhorse, using an 18v DeWalt circular saw. Made my cut and discovered I had got about two inches of my tail-gate. Didn't slow the saw down or even make any noise.

fixerupper · May 29, 2013

I second the tin snips idea. This new steel isn't as thick as the old corregated galvanized stuff was and it's pretty easy to cut. The old fashioned scissors type works the best. On my last two roofing and inside wall projects I used a tin snips for cross cutting and scoring and snapping for long ways cutting. There's no need for hearing and face protection.Jim

old · May 29, 2013

Wish I had the plans for a gig I heard of years ago. It used a piece of wire and a angle iron frame to cut roofing metal and you just pushed the bar down and the wire cut the metal no power other then your arms

Anonymous-0 · May 29, 2013

I have personally used a circular saw with a backwards blade. Works pretty well, but like others have said you need to have hearing and eye protection. I don't know if I will use the circular saw for future projects as contractors have told me that the saw heats the metal up along the cut and burns the paint which causes it to rust eariler.

Anonymous-0 · May 29, 2013

I've saw tin cut lengthwise with a wire, but not cross ways. Works really slick and easy. I suspose like you say with a jig to somewhat match the ridges of the tin it would work. I have always just used a regular tin cutting blade, works a lot better than a regular saw blade. Just be sure to protect your eyes and ears.

old · May 29, 2013

Most of the time I use a metal blade in a curricular saw and yes it is loud and throws sparks all over the place, But with my bad hearing and all pretty much does not matter if I have ear plugs in or not

LAA · May 29, 2013

A business that specializes in steel roofing and siding materials should cut your roofing to length, the only thing you would have to cut is trim and ridge cap but to answer your question a grinder with a 7"" steel cut off wheel does a good neat job, don"t buy the cheapest wheels because they tend to fly to pieces, Dewalt and Metabo both make good wheels and you can order them online in bulk cheap enough. You definitely need safety glasses when using a cut off wheel and expect to use a new wheel for roughly every 3-4 cuts in 36"" stock, I also have a Malco shear that attaches to a drill, its all right and does not throw any sparks or chips but does a much rougher job cross cutting.

Royse · May 29, 2013

Cut one piece with tin snips, then multiply that work by how much
roof you have left to go. Probably not practical in a timely manner.
Specially if you're using raised ridge type steel like most do.
I have used a skill saw with a fine toothed blade backwards.
Cut from the bottom side. Works well, but noisy as others have said.
Buy several cheap, non-carbide tipped blades and use those.
They are throw-aways afterwards.
What little I've done lately I've done with an air powered
recipricating saw. Like a small SawzAll.
Clamp a guide board to the steel and run the saw along side it.
Almost as fast as a circular say without the mess, noise or chips flying.
Makes a smoother cut too, but blades are expensive.

State of Jefferson · May 29, 2013

I either use the Abrasive metal cutting blades, or power tin shears-they're the only way to go for long cuts. If you have multiples of the same size, stack em up and use the abrasive blade in the skill saw. Blades wear fairly quick, but they are cheap. Don't have the problem with the "birdshot" effect with the ole ""backwards blade" trick.

Ben

UncleTom · May 30, 2013

I agree with Phlash in OK. $ inch grinder with the thin zip cut in it works really good.

macec3(TX) · May 30, 2013

I just bought a Malco Turbo Shear attachment for my drill. So far, just tried on a test piece. I think it will take most of the work out of cutting a lot of sheet metal.

Blackhole49 · May 30, 2013

My neighbor had a barn built last year. The builder
specialized in metal barns and does all his cutting
with a shear. Really slick.

rrlund · May 30, 2013

Way back in 1964 when we had our first pole barn built,they just used a wood type blade turned backwards. That's all I've used since. Just be sure to use ear and eye protection.

johndeerefan · May 30, 2013

I bought a tin snip attachment for my drill. It works great for cutting roofing metal.

Hal/ Eastern WA · May 30, 2013

I have used an old, worn out plywood blade in my circular saw, installed backwards. The teeth are now worn almost smooth from cutting LOTS of sheet metal. It will make good cuts, but it does it by melting the sheet metal, which burns the paint or galvanizing at the cut. That hasn"t seemed to matter much, but it seemed like a place that might rust. Also it is extremely loud and the process throws sparks of molten metal. It will sure make a plastic case circular saw look ugly from the hot metal bits sticking to it. But it works, it is cheap and as accurate as the operator of the circular saw can make it.

However the cuts made with a shear by the metal supplier are MUCH nicer. When I am going to order sheet metal, I measure very carefully for each piece and make a drawing of what lengths are supposed to go where. Still there are always a few places that end up needing cuts at the building site.

I have tried tinsnips and still use them for some things, but I have a hard time matching the accuracy and speed of using the circular saw, especially when crossing ribs.

Safety gear is a must! Ear protection, GOOD eye protection (and maybe a face shield) and heavy gloves are necessary. And I wouldn"t plan wearing the clothes you wear while cutting to town afterwards! Good luck.

Prawn Farmer · May 30, 2013

Trick we used for ripping length-wise was using a pole barn nail and scoring the metal 2 or 3 times. Bend the metal back and forth a couple of times and it will snap like a piece of glass. Be sure to have on leather gloves! Little tougher to do on longer lengths but really fast for sidewall metal. If you can't rent a shear that matches your rib metal to cut in the width direction, use a metal blade - that's what they are made for. A tooth or shard coming off a backward running blade made for wood will still go through a flimsy piece of plastic eye shield like it isn't there. Also, we always cut the metal with the painted face down as the sparks will burn through the paint and can leave rust specks.

rockyridgefarm · May 30, 2013

(quoted from post at 19:08:55 05/29/13) Im gonna put a new roof on my barn this summer and I am wondering what is the best method of cutting. I have been told to use my skill saw with the blade in backwards. Fine or coarse tooth blade? Does it matter? I know they make a blade made for cutting barn steel but have heard it don't work well. What works best for you?

As others said, any place selling siding will cut to length to the inch. They have a tool that looks like a giant paper cutter that cuts to length. Works slick

For angled cuts in valleys, I have a malco snips I put on my Milwaukee 18 volt drill. I think it was $30 at Menards. It doesn't look like much, but works great with the drill in high speed. I also have an 18 volt milwaukee metal cutting circular saw. MUCH better than a wood saw with blade backward. I especially like that I can take it anywhere and not have to drag a cord. They put a lot more shielding over the blade and it still throws small shards. Full face shield and hearing protection REQUIRED.

DoubleR · May 30, 2013

I have built about a 1/2 doz. steel pole barns. I have always used a carbide combination blade in a skill saw. I put on a face shield and good gloves and upper body protection. Its worked for me.

MSS3020 · May 30, 2013

Your gonna laugh.. Harber Freight has a metal "lifetime" saw blade for a circular saw. I just built a 24 x 36 and used it. By the end it was getting dull..Wear face/head protection and gloves when doing it. Also cutting on the back side is easier than the front of metal sheeting.

Best saw blade for cutting barn tin/steel?

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