The BAT wire from your "1 wire" alternator goes to one post on the ammeter, the same post as the ignition switch and light switch connect to. The other ammeter post connects to the battery, likely at the starter switch. The alternator must be connected through the ammeter to give you a charge indicator.
Do you really have a 110 amp "1wire"alternator ?? If so, I would ask why did you get one that large? A 110 amp alternator is too large for the wiring and ammeter on your tractor. Also a 37 amp "1 wire alternator will excite(start charging) at less than 1/2 the rpm of a 60, 72 or 110 amp 1 wire alternator. Your tractor engine may not run fast enough to excite a high amp "1 wire " alternator. If you do have a very high amp "1 wire" alternator, I would exchange it for a 37 amp model, it will serve you much better unless you have a very large electrical accessory load that requires that many amps. I fault the parts store for only wstocking very large amp "1 wire" alternators. They can often stock only the large ones, as they can substitute a larg alternator for a small alternator application. Fine for a high rpm automotive engine, but many older tractor engines simply do not run fast enough to excite those big "1 wire" alternators.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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