Posted by Adirondack case guy on April 01, 2013 at 20:18:28 from (74.69.160.79):
In Reply to: Vapor Barrier posted by edj856 on April 01, 2013 at 15:38:05:
As a contractor I have built several comercial and farm shops with radiant floor heat. The key to your sucess is a properly constructed base for your floor. First off you need a good substraith. On top of a very solid base you need a fine agrigate that will compact smoothly and lock together like concrete. I sugest stone dust, sand will not compact. This layer has to be graded dead on with no low spots so the styro, if that is what you chose to use doesn't have to bridge low spots. I prefer insulated blankets, that incorperate a vapor barrier and a radon barrier. The blankets when covered with crete follow any variations in sub grade and can be formed under floor drainage systems to maximize strength and continuity of the vapor barrier in this area. The rebar schedual you use is also critical. We layed down a grid of #4 bar 5' OC on 2" (chairs) and then tied 5'x10'x6" mesh to it. We then tied 7/8" radient tubing 16" on center with plastic tielocks to the mesh. You are also going to need to install a vertical insulation barrier 2' deep around the perimiter of the building, and between all the exterior aprons and the main floor. We pour a full 6" floor with a min. of 4000# crete, which is power screeded to elininate air bubbles, and settles it in tightly around all the rebar and tubing. (this is very important to strength and transfer of heat from the radiant tubing. On large floors like in the pics. I posted we cut the floor into 20' sections on the column lines to the center drain system. I don't perticularly like center floor drainage systems but the two buildings I picured had to incorperate oil/water seporator systems. The Teed section on the rear of the 12,460sq ft red construction shop is an enclosed and heated wash bay, and the seporator tanks are buried just to the left of it. The pics of the radiant tubing are in the office area of the building and we did use 2" styro there with 6" ICF frost walls, where there would be no heavy floor loading. The shop floor was designed to hold the abuse of big construction equipment and point loads from floor jacks and blocking suporting heavy equipment, and was a 4500# mix. To sumerize 1 compaction, compaction, compaction. 2 smooth and precisely graded 3 put vapor barrier under styro., if you use it. Rebar/mesh and pouring it will compromise it. 4 vibrate it in with a power screed so it fills all the gaps around rebar and tubing, for strength and heat transfer. Insulation coments. These are Steel freespan buildings, but this applies to all steel clad buildings. 1spray on "open cell insulation, not closed. (closed will not expand and contract with the steel, and cracks or looses it's bond to the steel clading. 2leave an air gap, and then install 2" thick DUPONT Thermax which has a one hr. fire rating required by code, and be sure to install it as directed to to form a continuous vapor barier to the inside of the building.The Thermax creates the condensation barier so that moisture will not condense above it in the roof and wall air pockets. 3 Put a protective wall of plywood or steel on the inside of the lower wall portion of the Thermax as it is prone to damage if not protected in your work zone. Loren, the Acg.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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