I remove the old grease fittings an take parts/brake cleaner and clean what old grease out I can. I then install new fittings. I usually put a round bale on the running gear front end. They will usually set on just the coupling pole and the front bolster well enough to act as a weight. I then take a tractor at a 90 degree angle to the wagon and hook it to the hitch. Then just wiggle back and forth real easy. They usually will wiggle just a little bit and pretty soon you can get them to take some grease. The round bale is heavy enough to put some force on the spindles but light enough that if they are stuck too tight the wagon can skid and not break anything.
If this does not work than I take a Rose bud heating tip and heat the heck out of the outside tube. This will usually get the most stubborn ones to move.
I did have one that would not even move when I did that to it. I ended up taking a cutting wheel and splitting the pipe top to bottom. I then was able to get it apart with heat. I then just welded the slot back shut. I did have to ream the bushings out as when the weld cooled it shrank the pipe some. But I did get it to move.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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