I did a clutch job on my '02 Chevy Silverado last fall. After I removed the trans and flywheel, I found the pilot bushing was pressed into the crank too far. I even took a picture of it. I bought it w/ 47k miles on it and I knew it hadn't been messed with since then. The isolation pad on top of the trans where the gear shift enters the cab was also cut, like someone had taken a saw to it in order to get it out.
Suspicious, I called the dealer where I bought it and found out that the clutch/trans had been replaced under warranty at 8k miles. I pulled the pilot out with a jig I built out of a piece of scrap and a carriage bolt. Worked bettern than other "shade-tree mechanic" methods.
I installed a new pilot bearing and set it to spec which was almost flush with the face of the crank. However, I remember thinking that the old one was so far back, I could almost have put the 2nd one in w/o removing the old one. Not that I considered doing it. And I didn't measure anything to see if 2 would actually fit. But my point is that it might be possible to do on some vehicles . This is the only trans I've done, so I'm not expert. If I can find the pic, I'll post it.
The concern I had with mine was if the front of the trans shaft was unsupported or had little support. Witout doing a stack-up, there'd be no way of knowing when everything was assembled. Maybe someone could chime in that's done a clutch and FORGOT to put a new bearing in. Will it run? Vibrate? Tear itself to pieces? Just chug along and cause wear on the rear bearing?
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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