If you really want the best deal, have a friend or relative with an employee's discount buy it and then sell it to you. Often employee's must own/drive a vehicle for several months before they can resell it.
As others have said, do some homework ahead of time. Take a few test drives to see which models you like. Then do some your homework to determine what you need before you seriously walk in to buy.
Consumer's Report and Consumer's Guide both sell car and pickup buying guides in bookstores, in Walmart and in some grocery stores. I prefer Consumer's Guide. There are other on-line sites for new and used vehicles: Edmond's(?), NADA, Kelly Blue Book (KBB?), etc.
If you keep your vehicles for a long time, say over five years, it can be better to buy later in the model year, June thru September. Dealer's receive increasingly bigger discounts and rebates from the factory as the model year gets closer to its end in September. There are some web-sites that publish the current dealer discounts, but I don't know the sites. Year end carry-overs are discounted even more, but your selection is limited to only what is left on the dealer's lot.
Dealers get an extra 3 percent discount on the vehicles they have on their lots. If you don't want all the expensive options on the dealer's lot, or you need special options (locking differential or a specific color) you could be money ahead to to give up the 3 percent dealer discount and order your new vehicle exactly the way you want it.
The factory model year change overs usually start in July. If you do order a truck, try to get your order in before June.
Haggling is part of the new vehicle buying process. Allow an extra two hours for bargaining, it could save you $200 to $500 an hour.
If your 12 year-old truck is in reasonable condition, plan to sell yourself instead of trading it in. Unless your trade-in is a real cream-puff, at 12 years old it is just too old and too risky for a new car dealer to put on his used car lot. He will likely need to dispose of it at a used car auction, so he can really only give you the auction price that he expects to get for your trade-in. Normally auction price is around half of what you could get by selling a good vehicle yourself. You can look-up average auction prices for your vehicle on-line. You do loose the sales tax value of your trade-in, but over-all you will get much more money by selling it yourself.
My experience is if I do not have a trade-in, then list price is completly negotiable, often somewhere between 5 and 10 percent off list or more.
When I have a trade-in, then the price stays fixed at full list price and all negotiation is on the value of the trade-in vehicle. The trade-in value looks too-good-to-be-true, but it winds up being the same somewhere between 5 and 10 percent off list price plus the expected auction price of the trade-in vehicle.
If your trade-in has major problems or is junk, then just trade it in and take a low trade-in allowance. The dealer will sell it at auction or scrap it for more than he paid you for it.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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