How do you get a good deal on a new truck?

My truck is 12 years old and getting tired from hauling tractors and hay and whatever. Anyway I am going to be needing to replace it with a new model.

I will be looking for a 2013 or 2014 Chev 4x4 with a diesel engine and crew cab.

I just hate going into a dealership and getting swarmed by the sales guys. Then when you deal with them they allways disappear to "take the offer to the manager". None seem to be able to give a straight answer. After the 4th trip or so, then you kind of get down to a bottom line. But even then, you just have that "I've been had feeling" knowing you probably didn't really get a good deal.

So, my question is how to do this right and get the best price? The best advice I got from internet sources seems to be to use the "invoice price" as a kind of benchmark and hopefully buy one there or maybe below. On the current truck I went to the commercial sales unit at a local large dealer and ordered the truck at invoice cost. No hassle.

How do you do it? What are the tricks to getting a really good deal? I already checked the normal incentives from GM and apparently only the $500 discount from GM and another $500 from Farm Bureau is all I can qualify for.

Financing will already be in place when I go so for the dealer it will be a cash deal with no trade.

Help! All ideas appreciated. Thanks.

It's to their advantage to get you to finance it through them, so you're already at a disadvantage. I would ask them first their financed price, do a bunch of scribbling on a notepad, and then ask them what it would take "cash on the barrelhead." Then take their bid down the road to the next dealer.

I would not buy a "new" truck.But if I did..Write a check for XXXX dollars under asking price.Give em 5-10 minutes,then head for the door.......That will get their attn real quick!

Cash price is no longer a sales point in your favor. Many dealers have in-store financing or have a deal setup with a financial institution that gives them a kickback. They're set up to make the most money if you're a typical American - more owed on your vehicle than it's worth and getting financing from them. Since your vehicle is paid off and you have financing locked down, you may actually lose the salesperson's interest.

I'd go in acting like I need financing from them. You may get a better deal. After a month, pay the truck off with your other financier.

If your talking GM diesel 4x4 than your talking duramax, they sticker at the low end $50k.
If your not trading in, you've got that going for you - as they typically go a little less on the sell price, and just reduce your trade in.
On the otherhand, having a trade in lowers your tax basis on the new vehicle. Say your new truck is $49k, and they give you $19k for your trade in,, your only paying tax on the $30k.

I own a 2011 duramax. The sticker was $52k, and I got it for $45k,, and maybe could have gotten it a little less.

(quoted from post at 02:33:05 01/04/13) I would not buy a "new" truck.But if I did..Write a check for XXXX dollars under asking price.Give em 5-10 minutes,then head for the door.......That will get their attn real quick!

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Sounds like Me!!!
The first thing I do is find a Dealer who doesn't charge DOC fee.
Next, I never ask what their low dollar is, I make an offer--within reason--- that I know they will not accept and negotiate on their counteroffer.
I NEVER ask what they will take--Make an offer and be ready to buy if they accept.
ALWAYS be in control !!!

(quoted from post at 18:26:42 01/03/13) My truck is 12 years old and getting tired from hauling tractors and hay and whatever. Anyway I am going to be needing to replace it with a new model.

I will be looking for a 2013 or 2014 Chev 4x4 with a diesel engine and crew cab.

I just hate going into a dealership and getting swarmed by the sales guys. Then when you deal with them they allways disappear to "take the offer to the manager". None seem to be able to give a straight answer. After the 4th trip or so, then you kind of get down to a bottom line. But even then, you just have that "I've been had feeling" knowing you probably didn't really get a good deal.

So, my question is how to do this right and get the best price? The best advice I got from internet sources seems to be to use the "invoice price" as a kind of benchmark and hopefully buy one there or maybe below. On the current truck I went to the commercial sales unit at a local large dealer and ordered the truck at invoice cost. No hassle.

How do you do it? What are the tricks to getting a really good deal? I already checked the normal incentives from GM and apparently only the $500 discount from GM and another $500 from Farm Bureau is all I can qualify for.

Financing will already be in place when I go so for the dealer it will be a cash deal with no trade.

Help! All ideas appreciated. Thanks.

Click to expand...

Call Dave Smith in Kellogg, Idaho...they sell $100 over dealer invoice....at least they did 8 years ago. They are the largest Dodge dealer in the world, and the largest GM dealer in the northwest...run shuttles from the Spokane airport for out of state buyers. They will give you a quote over the phone...mention their name to the other GM dealers and they get pizzed and won't talk to ya....

Write out a document that clearly describes the truck and options you want. Be very detailed. E-mail it to every dealer in your area with simple instructions that low bidder gets the sale. They don't have any time invested in it so they might give you a low price just to move volume and make some profit.

Get a brochure.

Decide exactly what you want and which options.

Prepare a spread sheet showing the base model and all options by option code. Prepare three columns: Retail, Invoice and Dealer Cost.

Research online to fill in the figures.

Total the columns, Underline the Dealer
Cost total and make copies.

Visit the dealers, ask for the sales manager, hand him a copy and ask for a cash out-the-door no trade price including EVERYTHING that they will force you to pay for, e.g., doc prep fees.

Tell him that other dealers will be given the same opportunity but you will not discus other dealers quotes.

Dean

Check past pasts on diesel vs gas.
It"s not 1986 with a carbureted gas vs a Cummuns turbo 6 and cheaper diesel fuel.
In 2013/2014 the cheaper , simpler and less costly to service gasser burning cheaper fuel is the winner.
Save yourself the money.

As mentioned, cash sale may not actually work to your advantage any more. You also may find that the dealer financing terms are not worse than any of your other options. Can always pay it early if you have cash on hand.

Last "new" vehicle I purchased I told the sales guy if he had to leave to check pricing I was leaving as well. At least got the head honcho out of his office. Also told him if they tried to sell me anything after the fact (extra warranty, undercoating, etc.) I was walking out. They still tried, but it was shot down pretty quick.

Personally, I can"t stomach the buyers remorse I have felt after the purchase of new vehicles so have come around to buying used and driving the wheels off of them. Just helps me sleep better at night. Know that is not necessarily your situation.

Good Luck,

Kirk

do not go to any deealer until you have done all your homework first. Go on line to the mfg website, completely price out your desired truck, with ALL add ons, equipment, options, engine, trans, color, etc, etc. Print it out and make extra copies. This gives you an accurate MSRP for your exact truck, as you want it. Next start reading the local newspaper ads, and get good ideas of how much they are taking off MSRP for your model. Call ahead to the dealer of your choice and talk ONLY to the GENERAL Manager - - not the sales manager. Tell him you dont want to kick tires and debate with salesman. FAX him a copy of the truck you want, and ask him to get back to you with their offer. Tom

"No" is the biggest thing car dealers are afraid of. That means they didn't get the sale. Remember you have the final word in any deal. Yes or no and don't be afraid to say no.

Don't tell them about your finiancing! And if ask don't tell them what you are willing to pay a month in payments. Tell them you want financing through them. And ask another said use your financing to pay it off unless they are giving you a better deal on the financing.


Do not take your spouse with you! Biggest scam in the game is for the sales guy to name a price and ask the spouse he feels is the easiest mark if they feel it's fair. If they say yes they are not going to come down much more if any. Remember they train these sales people to spot the one who controls the money, the easy/hard sell and the tight wad and the spender in any couple.

The no trade thing is good because they generally pad the price on a new vehicle to offset them over paying for your trade. Most people want retail on a trade. Most dealers don't want to pay over whole sale.

Go to several different dealers. You are talking a lot of money here. So a 50-60 mile drive to several different dealer can save you thousands! Don't be afraid to show a dealer what another dealer has offered on a worksheet. Insist on a worksheet from each dealer. Go back at least once to each dealer with the lowest offer.

Get offers from Dodge and Ford too. Don't tell the Chevy guy that is what you are going to buy. Let him think that you may go Ford of Dodge and don't even hint that you really want the Chevy most.

Good Luck

We purchased three fords in the 52 to 55 range last year. In each instance about 13 thousand off the window sticker. Hard to know what the real invoice is unless you really know the dealer. In one of those deals the dealers daughter called week latter and told us Dad thought he was making about $1500 dollars but the truck had different tires and when she went to settle with ford she actually owed about a thousand more than they thought so the deal was pretty slim. I do not mention the Farm Bureau thing until after the deal is done. That is money outside the deal or dealer lowest price.There was a case where we had to finance one for 90 days to get additional thousand dollars Ford money.

I don't think their is a good deal, unless they want your used truck. I go the Mega Dealer and get a written price. Then go to our local dealer and buy it. Generally for $500 more. It has been worth it. They give excellent service and warranty is no problem, even if it is out a little. Vic

get their bottom price on the new truck you want then tell you want to trade in your truck

86% of the sticker price is pretty close to the dealer's cost, not counting the dealer's holdback.

Don't begrudge a dealer a few dollars profit, if he didn't make a profit, he wouldn't be in business.

That being said, take the sticker price times .86, add maybe $500, offer it cash on the barrelhead and see where it goes. If you feel like they're playing games, walk out.

Like someone else said, one game they play is for the salesman to talk to the Sales Manager ("the desk" as it's known in the trade). That's just a ploy to get you to think the salesman is on your side.

When I was selling, any salesman who wasn't doing anything played the role of the Sales Manager.

I go in and tell them what i'll give, if they don't bite, I leave. Have did this for a lot of year's and works for me. Went to buy a new pickup a few year's back, made an offer on the one I wanted. Could hear the salesman talk to the manager, and he told him if he wanted to sell the truck that he would have to take what I offered. He said that I had walked over 50 bucks the last time. I bought the truck.

Your small local dealer will sometimes deal more than the big guys. They don't sell 100dreds of cars a day and will sit and talk to you for hours just to make a deal with the hometown boy. They also know you when you come back for service or parts or repairs.
Make sure that what the guy says your trade in is worth is what you get on the paper or just get up and walk.
Remember the door out is your best bargaining place.
Walt
Don't let them know it but finance though your insurgence company for the best deal.

There are several web sites dedicated to helping you get the best deal on a new car/truck.

Haven't done it myself in a while - but I think consumer reports had something on their site.

Google around a bit and you should be able to find a reputable service.

You have to pay a fee of course (think it's a bout $15 per car) - but the information will more than pay for itself.

They give you the exact dealer cost - of the car and all the options.

They also explain in detail how their incentive bonuses work and exactly what the dealer will make on a sale.

Some of the programs are fairly complicated, so study it carefully. They're designed to be tricky.

Armed with that knowledge, you can be sure you're getting the best possible deal.

Of course, you have to expect the dealer to make SOMETHING on the sale.

But negotiating over what he makes on the sale vs. going in blind just hoping to get someting knocked off the sticker is a much better place to be.

The biggest thing they're scared of the seeing the back of your head when you walk out the door because that sale is gone. So if you can't bear to pay what they want, walk. You'll soon see where they really stand.
Beyond that your best bet is probably in trying to buy last years model, mabey with some equipment package that nobody else wants... that's been sitting on the lot for a while. Year end comes they want to clear the old stuff out. That's where the deals will be. If you want the newest model with all of the latest and greatest gadgets that they have to order... you're basically screwed before you start.
I'd also suggest you price the competition first and don't be afraid to let them know that... make them work for the sale. If someone else just happens to have a program on at the moment and they don't... they might work to match it. Or not... or mabey you'd just be wise to go buy something else anyway.

Rod

IF and again i said IF i was to buy a new truck myself i would go see and old friend that he and i worked together way back in 1968 . I have sent may of my friends over to see him and each and everyone has bought from him as he has saved them thousands of dollars . When the wife needed a new car i stopped by to see Denny and walked out with a two year old lease turn in that was a cream puff for 250 bucks over what the dealer had in it . Sent a close friend to see him about a one ton four wheel drive cab and chassie after he had talked to several other dealers and when Denny was done Vernon saved seven grand over the other dealers on the same truck . Denny gave him Fleet discount he gave him Farm discount along with other discounts along with here again 250 bucks over the showen invoice , that is not actual dealer BILLING invoice and that did not include hold back. But that was on a Dodge . So IF you want a Goat then Denny is the man to see.

Poke around here for awhile.
Untitled URL Link

There are often discounts that can be had by dealer financing. I did that on a 2012 F150. got 1000 more off and before I made the first payment refinanced thru a local credit union for 2% less. I was able to take advantage of the ford xplan. Make sure you are not able to take advantage of any Mfg. plans. select the truck you want with all the options and price it at different dealers. Most of the local dealers trade between the dealerships and the truck is available to all. I have bought 3 that were on other lots and I got them from my local dealer. Good luck make it an experience you can enjoy.

You're on the right track getting a benchmark price setablished before you walk in the door. then start visiting dealers. It takes up a lot of your time to do this but there is a variance in price between dealers. And be careful not to get the word NEW stuck in your head. You might find a three-year-old ultra low miles grandpa pickup at one of the dealers. In my humble opinion you do not need every fancy do-dad they have to offer for options. Jim

Do you have more than 1 dealer in the area? Last new one I bought I priced where it was. I got the inventory number off it and went to another dealership. I looked around and they didn't have anything I wanted. Salesman all excited says tell me exactly what you want and I'll get it for you. I tell him where I found one that I liked but they wouldn't get right on the price. I then gave him the inventory number and my phone number and what they quoted me and said call me if you can help.
Phone was ringing when I got home, he had knocked almost a grand off the price. So I drove over to the original dealer and asked the schmuck why I could buy his truck cheaper at his competitor. He acted confused and after a quick phone call found out I was playing a game and he was going to loose if he didn't get right. Took 3 days before I finally signed on the dotted line, the whole time sweating that someone would buy it off from under me. Ended up being just shy of 3 grand less than the first quote, well worth my time and effort. That was in 96 and I still have and drive that truck. I just like you hate dealing with the salesmen, but it sure if fun to make them work hard for the commision.

Back many years ago before I learned of Ford's special deal for members of the DAV, I went to 2 competing dealers. I said up front what I wanted in my new truck and also said, I'm also talking to your biggest competition. Funny thing is, both dealers offered $300 over invoice and were only $500 apart on trade-in value. Lucky for one dealer, he took the time to ask a few questions and noticed the Veteran plate on my trade-in. My plan didn't really worked the way I'd hoped, but I ended up getting an even better deal out of it.

I go online, pick out the options, color, drive train, suspension, etc. basicly the whole package. then I print it out and go to 4 or 5 dealers and say" here is the truck I want and the dealer that gets me the best price, gets the sale". If they see you are serious, they talk turkey in a hurry. I can walk in to a dealership and walk out with their best price in about a half hour.

unless you are doing a lot of heavy towing.

I bought my Duramax in 2007. And I think I couldn't have gotten it cheaper- at least a friend of mine who is a salesman for one of the big local dealerships said that I couldn't get under his price (I did by almost $2K).

First, get into GM, Dodge, or Ford, and 'build' a truck like you want. Each one has a site and has all of the options, colors and whistles available in their 'packages'. This will give you an idea of the stickers on the vehicles from the manufacturer.

Then, go to 'Edmunds.com.' They will give you the same buildout options, and then also what the normal low price, and average selling price of the unit you are specing out. Go back to the manufacturer site, and locate what you want. They will tell you what the sticker is, and where the truck is located. You may have to look some for the vehicle you want- ie., I speced a diesel and they kept tossing gassers into their list. I soon learned that the diesel option was about $8k more than a gasser, so it made it easier to spot the diesels.

The next trick, is to get a pre-approval from your bank for a cash roll. It will cost you less in the long run if you do not finance the thing thru GM or Dorf credit.

After you find what they have available, go back to your main site, and 'select a dealer' near you. Like 4 or 5. Be honest with them- ask what they will sell you the truck for. Cash deal, no trade. And let them come back with the unit you have selected or something close. You can have some fun here. I punched in 5 dealers, and had a bite within two hours, and all answered me within 24 hours by phone or email. Some will try to sell you something else, but most have learned you've already gotten familiar with what's available within several hundred miles.

And you haven't left the office yet! It took some talking, but I actually had my best price on the first call. $41K truck for something less than $29K. One tryed to sell me a gasser anyway, and another tried to upgrade me to a crew cab with a short bed in a 1/2 ton. It was in his inventory, and he wanted to move it bad. No go. My buddy got me a price that was closer to the 1st dealer, but still 3K over. After a call to his bosses in Baltimore, he did get within $1500, but they are a big dealer, and their overhead is much more than the guy (actually the owner's daughter) that I bought from. They had to get the truck from Delaware the next day, and I picked it up that afternoon. $28K and change. Cash deal, no trade, and no hassle in a waiting room. My buddy told me it was a scam price, but I think he was a bit upset that he didn't get the sale. The folks I dealt with were straight up, and have been great for service since. Not a fancy place, but I will go back in a heartbeat. I sold my old truck, a K3500 diesel 6.5 for $6500, so the new truck was actually about $22k. Total time in the showroom was about an hour for all the paperwork, and they changed the oil for a year.

I know this is kind of long, but one of the guys at the firehouse bought one a week earlier, a clone of mine, and paid $35 K for his. So this DOES work!! Good luck, and have some fun screwing with some high priced salesmen- some will tell you how you can't get a cheaper deal and start stuttering when you tell them that you already did. And you will get what YOU want....not what they will 'sell' you.....

Be prepared to walk out the door if they are pushy and don't get caught up in their gimmicks. 99% of dealers all have gimmicks. A left over model from the previous year should have a big discount. If you're looking for a real popular option package, it probably won't be the best deal but don't act like you're really desperate. A dealer will pick up on that. Just say you're looking for an idea on price at a few dealers. If a sales person is hounding you before you're even parked, leave as fast as you can!!! Checking online reviews of dealers can help separate the better ones from the shysters.

T.C.* First of you are here in Texas where there is an abundance of New and Pre-owned, and Program trucks that have come off lease and can be gotten at a substantial savings.
Since you know what you want that is the easy part.
*Where are you located?
*I ask the next ? for a reason! How many miles a yr are you putting on this truck? I know you are thinking New But a low mileage Pre-owned truck say 1 yr old will get you more of every bell and whistle you want with a substantial savings!
*I don't know if that might perk you any at all!
*The others have given a lot of good advise *Research this truck 12 ways from Saturday Know what it cost new, Go sit down with the New Truck Manager and Spec out... Your Truck, As if you were goin to "Custom Order" a new one, Not taking one off the lot! Every bell, every whistle, Every thing that is in the Book, I Ordered twice in my life.
**But I have Speced out many, many, many times. AS IF That is your truck when it arrives sitting on the Transport That is usually the best price on a new truck, Car.,Same as above, No money put down to get the ball rolling.
*Look at the Pre-owned trucks, internet @1 yr old, 30K, 40K 50K! etc, etc. Know where you want to BE before you walk in to a dealer!
*ARE You a CASH Buyer, If so you have all the power. If not that is OK too.
***Before you go into a particular dealer go on their web site, figure out the chain of authority, DO NOT TAKE The Low Man on the Totum Pole.
*Ask the first person who walks up to you in the dealership if he has the authority to make and finalize your deal if Not, Direct you to that person who can!,
* Then say Nobody get up from the desk to ask anybody anything/or go to the restroom. When we sit down the deal process works or YOU leave.END Of Subject!
*Tell them They have 1 shot to earn your business and ! shot only!!!!! You are not playing paddy-cake with them, So don't Waste your and mine!
**OBTW Do Not Be afraid to Pick your happy self up and walk out the door. Also Break it off in them,, that you do not have a problem buying half way across the country. Dealers in most big cities are more than happy to make a deal on the internet or over the phone. You Fly into Denver, OKC,etc, etc, They pick you up at the Airport, Drive to the dealership sign the papers. and let you drive home.
A reletive of mine tried trading all over the Tx, Okla. Panhandle. He found the largest Dodge Dealership in the Nation up in Idaho and they Beat the locals by 5K, a plane ticket, and they met him at the airport, in Boise ID, in his new truck, went to the Dealership, signed papers, and he drove home.
*I bought a Program truck In Portales NM a few yrs ago. my local dealer had to service it. Portales had one on the lot like I wanted, my local dealer didn't and didn't seem to care about selling me a truck.
***Also If you are in close enough to DFW, Listen to the WBAP on Sat AMs to the Car Pro Show, visit with them, They seems to have a way to really helps some folks too
The Smaller Dealers will treat you better
***
IE;;; 3 Chevy dealers I like....
Hoffpauir Chevy, Lampasas, Tx
Bruner Chevy, Stephenville, & Brownwood Tx
Bennie Boyd Chevy, Lamesa, Tx.
Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.

If you really want the best deal, have a friend or relative with an employee's discount buy it and then sell it to you. Often employee's must own/drive a vehicle for several months before they can resell it.

As others have said, do some homework ahead of time. Take a few test drives to see which models you like. Then do some your homework to determine what you need before you seriously walk in to buy.

Consumer's Report and Consumer's Guide both sell car and pickup buying guides in bookstores, in Walmart and in some grocery stores. I prefer Consumer's Guide. There are other on-line sites for new and used vehicles: Edmond's(?), NADA, Kelly Blue Book (KBB?), etc.

If you keep your vehicles for a long time, say over five years, it can be better to buy later in the model year, June thru September. Dealer's receive increasingly bigger discounts and rebates from the factory as the model year gets closer to its end in September. There are some web-sites that publish the current dealer discounts, but I don't know the sites. Year end carry-overs are discounted even more, but your selection is limited to only what is left on the dealer's lot.

Dealers get an extra 3 percent discount on the vehicles they have on their lots. If you don't want all the expensive options on the dealer's lot, or you need special options (locking differential or a specific color) you could be money ahead to to give up the 3 percent dealer discount and order your new vehicle exactly the way you want it.

The factory model year change overs usually start in July. If you do order a truck, try to get your order in before June.

Haggling is part of the new vehicle buying process. Allow an extra two hours for bargaining, it could save you $200 to $500 an hour.

If your 12 year-old truck is in reasonable condition, plan to sell yourself instead of trading it in. Unless your trade-in is a real cream-puff, at 12 years old it is just too old and too risky for a new car dealer to put on his used car lot. He will likely need to dispose of it at a used car auction, so he can really only give you the auction price that he expects to get for your trade-in. Normally auction price is around half of what you could get by selling a good vehicle yourself. You can look-up average auction prices for your vehicle on-line. You do loose the sales tax value of your trade-in, but over-all you will get much more money by selling it yourself.

My experience is if I do not have a trade-in, then list price is completly negotiable, often somewhere between 5 and 10 percent off list or more.

When I have a trade-in, then the price stays fixed at full list price and all negotiation is on the value of the trade-in vehicle. The trade-in value looks too-good-to-be-true, but it winds up being the same somewhere between 5 and 10 percent off list price plus the expected auction price of the trade-in vehicle.

If your trade-in has major problems or is junk, then just trade it in and take a low trade-in allowance. The dealer will sell it at auction or scrap it for more than he paid you for it.

Good luck, relax and have fun!

Forgot to mention, do your homework! In may of 91 the wife and I were in the market for a new minivan. This was when Ford, GM and Chrysler were all advertizing thier "special miltary programs" because of Destert Storm. Both Ford's and GM's programs were employees pricing and included any "specials". Chryslers was a joke. We went with GM and cashed in on a year old still on the lot deal. Our Lumina (I know butt ugly) van cost us after all discounts a little under 12K. A guy I worked with got the same exact vehicle for 16K getting the same deal we got. Only thing different was the color. Both got the military discount, 1st time new car buyer and special over trade value. Big difference is he let the dealers right outside the "gate" convince him that he was getting the best deal possible and I shopped around. Another guy I worked with wanted a Ford. He talked to the local dealer and was qouted 26K. Called his FIL who worked for Ford and was told nope! To high. So he went to a dealer a little further away. Got told for the same exact vehicle about 22K. FIL said nope! So he went to a dealer about 30 miles off post and got it for about 18K.

Don't let the dealer BS you.

Most dealerships use to make money selling cars and turcks (about 12% on the base price and 50% on options). Now thier money is in the shop! Basically they are making slim to no profit on the a sale, where the real money is comes from service and repair.

Rick

Read up on Consumer"s Reports on how to price one, then get prices from 2 or 3 near=by dealers. Tell one you have a great price, tell them you"d like their truck, then politely walk out the door. Leave your phone number. They"ll call in 15 minutes. But bid one off agiaonst the other. It works.

I'd look for a good used truck and save $20K right off the bat.

IMHO, I have had very good luck buying almost new vehicles. If you can be patient and look around you can find what you want with more bang for your buck. The link I have attached is supposed to be one of the best at this sort of deal and they are located close to the middle of the State. I live way down in S.E. Texas, Beaumont area, and several of my co-workers have completed a deal on-line and then flown up and picked up their truck. The dealership picks them up at the airport for no charge.
I had a wreck back in July and totaled a perfectly good 2007 Texas Edition w/ 106K miles on it, that I was planning on driving another five years. I lucked into a deal at a local dealer, a 2011 1/2 ton crew cab Chevy that didn't have all the bells and whistles my former truck did but I don't have to have a CD changer and all that fancy stuff. Also, either way you go, new or used, know what you are willing to pay before you go to dealership and don't be shy about getting up and walking out...just make sure they get your phone # first, they will call you with a better deal by end of day or first thing the next morning...I know this works because I have done it on the last 4 vehicles I bought.
www.northtexastruckstop.com

We would probably look for a slightly used pickup that still has a fair amount of factory warranty remaining. That way, one gets a nearly new pickup, but you don't take the bite of the value-drop that happens the moment one drives a new one off the sales lot.

However, if you want to simplify your life... do what my brother-in-law does. He just goes to a dealer and pays them exactly what they want - does not negotiate at all. He does no comparison shopping either. And he is happy if they happen to give him a free soda or hotdog during the paperwork process. Also just accepts whatever they offer for trade-in on his old one too. Not that he is made of money, either - just too chicken to put on his big boy pants and negotiate. LOL.

In '05 I bought a truck with a list of $41,000 for $32,000. Here is what I do; Always shop end of quarter or best yet end of year. The dealer may be close to getting bumped up to a higher rebate percentage. Shop on line. A car guy on a Sunday morning radio program said that the dealers have to sell for less on line or they will be out of business. Offer 90% of base and 50% of options. Most of dealer profit comes from sale of options and add-ons. Pay no attention to dealer cost. They don't know their cost until way after the vehicle is sold because they don't know what rebates they are going to earn.

I have a good friend like that, a university history professor.

He always buys new cars, and he just walks in and pays the asking price.

Don"t be stuck on a diesel unless you"re doing a lot of towing. Like, more than once a week. The gassers" lower purchase price, fuel price, and maintenance will payoff in the long run.

My Chevy 3/4 ton has 571,500 miles. Runs great, never been in a shop.

If you're looking at a Chevy or GMC walk in with cash and start 10K below sticker. They are where Dodge was with trucks before bankruptcy, pushing a 6 month supply that they can't sell.

I am waiting for my new chevy 1500, to be transported to the dealer, and "dealer add ons" to be installed. This is the second new car, and the fifth total, from this dealer. That got me a far better deal, than anywhere else. I went in and told the salesman what I wanted, can you find it, total price. I saved $2000, over any other dealer. My best advice is, Try to get to know the manager.