You need to isolate if it is an adjustment issue, air issue or mechanical issue. Pump the pedal about five times with the engine OFF. Let it sit for 2 minutes. Step on the pedal. It should be high and hard. Pull out the floormat and make sure your other foot will go under the pedal with the brake applied. If it's high and hard your adjustment is good enough if not it's either adjustment or mechanical issue, like caliper bushings; essentially anything which will cause too much movement of the caliper prior to brakes applying on the rotor. If the pedal is "soft" engine off it's either air or another hydraulic issue. Bleed all four if you can. No disrespect intended, but was the master cylinder bench bled prior to installation? If not, bleed all four brakes. Some air pockets can be a real pain to remove, so be patient, and if you don't have a helper, gravity bleed the system. If you still have a pedal drop you have a hydraulic issue. In that case , I would return the master cylinder as suggested as it's likely defective. Hope this helps. Gerard
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Today's Featured Article - An Old-Time Tractor Demonstration - by Kim Pratt. Sam was born in rural Kansas in 1926. His dad was a hard-working farmer and the children worked hard everyday to help ends meet. In the rural area he grew up in, the highlight of the week was Saturday when many people took a break from their work to go to town. It was on one such Saturday in the early 1940's when Sam was 16 years old that he ended up in Dennison, Kansas to watch a demonstration of a new tractor being put on by a local dealer. It was an Allis-Chalmers tractor dealership,
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