You need to isolate if it is an adjustment issue, air issue or mechanical issue. Pump the pedal about five times with the engine OFF. Let it sit for 2 minutes. Step on the pedal. It should be high and hard. Pull out the floormat and make sure your other foot will go under the pedal with the brake applied. If it's high and hard your adjustment is good enough if not it's either adjustment or mechanical issue, like caliper bushings; essentially anything which will cause too much movement of the caliper prior to brakes applying on the rotor. If the pedal is "soft" engine off it's either air or another hydraulic issue. Bleed all four if you can. No disrespect intended, but was the master cylinder bench bled prior to installation? If not, bleed all four brakes. Some air pockets can be a real pain to remove, so be patient, and if you don't have a helper, gravity bleed the system. If you still have a pedal drop you have a hydraulic issue. In that case , I would return the master cylinder as suggested as it's likely defective. Hope this helps. Gerard
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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