Steve, Here in Central Texas, The norm is 12 in holes, drilled 4 + ft deep for corners, and line post about 2 ft deep. People will bell out the bottom of the hole then hand tamp wood post in. If using steel pipe either set the pipe in the hole just like a regular wood post OR then drive 3 + feet into the bottom of the hole then concrete half of the remaining hole. Then put soil the rest of the way to the top.(ie... pipe post corners done this way will need to be about 12 to 13 ft long to account for the 3 ft driven in the bottom of the hole, line post, 2 ft shorter.) . Corners done this way here just don't ever move at all. Don'' see what keeps the fence post tight, in a method as you described. Fences are just not done that way here at all, 9 in and 12 in are the usual auger sizes. Even the pro- fence builders here are not that good to keep a hole that close on a line. Soil condition vary too much, the auger will move around due to rock ledges, tree roots and the like. Hope this helps. Later, John A.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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