The tractor valve likes to stay in the neutral or hold or center position when haybine is on the ground cutting... The machine is designed to float along the ground with all pressure released from the hydraulics... It"s not hooked up to "power" down because there is no hose to go to the "power down" side of the remote block. ... It"s a single-line implement with a hyd cylinder that is vented on one side... When the control valve lever is pushed forward, "gravity down" forces the oil back into the tractor via the "power raise" side of the remote block as it"s supposed to do. Dealer assured me the "power down" side of the remote block does not need to be attached to with this type of implement... Once the implement is down the lever returns by itself to the neutral or hold center position.... Are you saying I should tie the lever forward in the "down" position all the time it"s on the ground mowing?
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Today's Featured Article - Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt - by Chris Pratt. It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn't fired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 ton that always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we get for 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the
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