4010 remotes, main control valves problem?

1963 deere 4010 with dual rear remotes... LH remote set was working fine with haybine for a few days on the 4010, but now after the haybine is down and control lever returns to the detent or neutral position, the haybine slowly raises back up on its own!... I switched the haybine over to the RH remote set and it works just fine over there... Is problem inside the LH remote actuating valve body? I suspect it"s leaking by internally for some reason.

Only thing unusual is I"m running a single-line remote cylinder for the first time on this 4010 and deere dealer assured me it would be okay to do so without a return line .. .this haybine has been single-line with no problem on other tractors, red and green...

You have one of the valves bad or out of adjustment in the Selective control valve on the left side. There are four valves inside the control valve.

When you are running a single acting cylinder you should be running the lever in the float position. It is much easier on the tractor and the valve. When you let it down by powering it down you are dead heading the system against the coupler. When you kick it to float all that happens is the low pressure valve in the control valve is open to the sump.

There are two holes in the control arm. If the linkage is in the bottom hole you will not be able to get the valve into float. Remove the console cowl and put the linkage into the top hole and then you should be able to feel it go into the float detent.

A few years ago I had a tractor in here that was acting very similar. Many things were tried including a different valve housing. As it turned out it was the thermal relief valve on the front cap of the SCV. A new valve and spring took care of the problem. The old spring had weakened and when this happens flow bypasses internally causing the very symptoms you describe. Mike

The tractor valve likes to stay in the neutral or hold or center position when haybine is on the ground cutting... The machine is designed to float along the ground with all pressure released from the hydraulics... It"s not hooked up to "power" down because there is no hose to go to the "power down" side of the remote block. ... It"s a single-line implement with a hyd cylinder that is vented on one side... When the control valve lever is pushed forward, "gravity down" forces the oil back into the tractor via the "power raise" side of the remote block as it"s supposed to do. Dealer assured me the "power down" side of the remote block does not need to be attached to with this type of implement... Once the implement is down the lever returns by itself to the neutral or hold center position.... Are you saying I should tie the lever forward in the "down" position all the time it"s on the ground mowing?

YOU HAVE A FLOAT POSITION on the lever/valve you have. You use this when you use a single hose on a single acting cylinder. IF you would put the lever linkage in the correct hole (in the picture item# 3 or 9. Put the rod in the TOP hole and you then have a detented float) it would go past the power down position into a detented float position. This would be pulling the lever back/down. This will drop the haybine faster and it is the correct way to use a single acting cylinder on a JD 4010.

You can use it like you are but it is hard on the hydraulic system and it also will not go down very fast. Also you have a valve leaking internally is why it is picking the haybine back up. By using the float you maybe able to keep using the valve without fixing the bad valve!!!!!!


You are talking about a 1960 JD 4010 that is a six cylinder tractor???? IF you have a small JD 4010 compact tractor than forget everything I told you

Also on the 10 series with the SCV lever on the dash, forward is up and back is down. So if you do like I am trying to tell you, then when you pull the lever back to let the haybine down the lever will go back past the power down into float and the lever will stay there.

If you still have a question just email me and we can talk about it over the phone. It is simple to do and it will work better.

thanks everyone for your help... the dash decals are gone and I had no idea there was a float position available.... Although I hauled chuckwagons with 3010"s, 4010"s, and 4020"s thirty to forty years ago occasionally for neighbors, I never worked on them and never ran the hydraulics... We are still farming with the same bunch of 1950's Reds & Greens we had back then. The 4010 is now our "big new tractor" and am still waiting for owner"s manual in the mail.

I relocated the two rods to the upper holes, and hello! We have float.... Now that I know this info and got things where they are supposed to be, the mower lowers very smoothly when I pull the lever back onto float. Unless the SCV valve develops a leak or pressure problems, I won"t be tearing it apart. Things seem to be working as they should and another 20ac are down today... Thanks again.

So far I only have two beefs with the 4010. One is the shirt-catching PTO-lever location, and the other is the 540-PTO shaft is way too low... I have to turn over the tractor drawbar everytime we switch between certain pto machines.

The haybine had to have its entire input shaft lowered about 8" to be in proper alignment with the 4010 and the entire machine re-balanced for proper float due to the low drawbar hitch. This process takes hours which means haybine cannot be quickly swapped to any of our other tractors as before... And I don"t like the new-generation PTO clutch design whatsoever. The older 2-clutch "live pto" design seems much better since it doesn"t constantly ride the fingers or TO bearing.

50 years behind the times and still a producer