Posted by peteTheRookie on March 09, 2012 at 17:12:42 from (74.78.21.209):
In Reply to: Re: The Money Pit... posted by flyingace on March 09, 2012 at 16:49:30:
Ace, I am in the same category with my '66 4500TLB. Fixed the easy and absolutely necessary leaks.
Changed hose that popped or were obviously going to pop. Changed oil, fuel filters. Use lots of Power Serve in diesel.
Right now everything "works", hydro leaks are under "control".
I made a 2ft by 4 ft drip pan that hangs under the tranny and the engine that is 1/2" deep and filled with speedy dry to catch the engine oil, tranny fluid that drips. Beats splitting the tractor which I cannot do as I do not even have a level stable surface to work on. Gravel driveway and no garage. Attached 1/4" hose and catch can that captures hydro fluid that squirts out of right swing cylinder of hoe ever time you swing hoe to the right. I fill ep a half gallon plastic juice bottle in about a hour if use the hoe. Switch bottle and let the bottle sit for a couple of weeks and the fluid looks like new with black sediment in bottom of jug. Then I run it thru one of these micro mesh coffee filter and put it back in tractor. Just leave last 1/2" in jug and the fluid I put back is golden and looks new. Just hoping I managed to scrap together the $$$ for a garage before something big breaks I can not repair in a day on the back lawn.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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