Posted by Fixerupper on February 20, 2012 at 10:03:21 from (199.120.105.202):
In Reply to: Deep ripping posted by flying belgian on February 20, 2012 at 09:08:17:
When I bought a Deere 5 shank I was told I needed 30 HP per shank in the soils around my neck of the woods. A three point hitch mounted ripper is brutal for the tractor if you are thinking of working in the 12"+ range. I found out 30 HP/shank will work but it's a struggle. A stock 175-180 horsepower is better not only because of more horsepower but you have a heavier horse in front of it. The power train in a 175-180 horse tractor can take the abuse better. A 135-150 horse tractor turned up to 175 won't have a heavy enough power train and it will break something expensive.
A ripper will help drain wet spots a little faster if the tile is working. The first year I used a ripper I noticed a couple of wet spots drained out a day sooner after a heavy rain. It didn't dawn on me right away why they drained quicker but I finally figured it out.
A few guys around here have inline rippers for bean ground and they don't seem to disturb much soil on top but I've never gone out in their field and dug down to see what it's like underground. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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