Deep ripping

flying belgian · Feb 20, 2012

I have decided to get a deep ripper to break up the hard pan just below my moldboard plow. Now I have heard that an inline ripper set at 30" between shanks will shatter the ground more then a V-ripper set at 30". Reason is there is more distance to the next 30" shank if you measure diag. on a v-ripper. Anyone have experiance with ether one? What if you would take a v-ripper and set the diag. distance to 30" making the witdth on the ground maybe 26"? I thought I had my sites set on a Kinze 2500 with coulters and cover disks for $6900. They are a straight bar. But now I found a JD v-ripper with out coulters and cover disks for $2200. Quite a difference in price. I don't need coulters as I am going to be ripping bean ground only. I do need the disk levlers but I can make some for the back of the JD and still save a lot of money. Those of you that have used them, any thoughts? Thanks.

the tractor vet · Feb 20, 2012

Last year we bought a landoll chisel that someone did a little barn yard engineering on and replaced the 9 shanks that it came with with five DMI parabolic shanks and we installed the tiger points with the seven inch wings on each shank . we had a 4-5 inch hard pan layer below the plow sole . I set it to run at 14 inches . Now how much it helped i am not sure YET . With all the rain last year and late planting we could not tell for sure . I can t3ell ya that it sure made the ground vary mellow . I did notice that the one area on the one hillside has not washed as much . Did it pull hard , you can bet your bottom dollar on that, as we spun the tires inside the rims three times ripping the valve stems off each time . I was just about to take the drill and drill and sheetmetal screw the tires to the rims but instead i took and welded little beads across the rims at the bead . Then remounted them new radials . I know for a fact that your normal 1066 will not haul that tool . one other thing is speed for best results above six MPH . We will see how it works this year due to all the rain the ground is packed tight and with the lack of frost it will be tough going this spring .

ejr-IA. · Feb 20, 2012

The V ripper was designed to pull easyer than the sraight across ripper.

flying belgian · Feb 20, 2012

Logic would tell me if it pulls easier it must not be doing as much shattering. That answers one of my questions. Thanks.

fixerupper · Feb 20, 2012

When I bought a Deere 5 shank I was told I needed 30 HP per shank in the soils around my neck of the woods. A three point hitch mounted ripper is brutal for the tractor if you are thinking of working in the 12"+ range. I found out 30 HP/shank will work but it's a struggle. A stock 175-180 horsepower is better not only because of more horsepower but you have a heavier horse in front of it. The power train in a 175-180 horse tractor can take the abuse better. A 135-150 horse tractor turned up to 175 won't have a heavy enough power train and it will break something expensive.

A ripper will help drain wet spots a little faster if the tile is working. The first year I used a ripper I noticed a couple of wet spots drained out a day sooner after a heavy rain. It didn't dawn on me right away why they drained quicker but I finally figured it out.

A few guys around here have inline rippers for bean ground and they don't seem to disturb much soil on top but I've never gone out in their field and dug down to see what it's like underground. Jim

dieseldoc · Feb 20, 2012

plant radishes or turnips and save your tractor and fuel.

Mark-Mi · Feb 20, 2012

In my experience nothing loosens the ground up like a Tye para plow. The soil lifts as its going through.
Years ago MSU had a deep till demo plot at AG Expo with various deep rippers. A ripper would make a pass then they would use a hydraulic probe that measures compaction. When they probed a few inches from the slit a regular subsoiler had did nothing. Soil behind para plow probed easy across entire swath.
We pulled a 6 leg with a 875 Versatile.
para plow

flying belgian · Feb 20, 2012

Good thought but not enough growing season here in so. Mn.

Stuart · Feb 20, 2012

If it takes 400-500hp to pull 5-7 shanks in my area, how can you do it with a 2wd tractor? I call dirty pool

55 50 Ron · Feb 20, 2012

"Spun the tires inside the rims"?? Probably mean "spun the rims inside the tires"??

Anonymous-0 · Feb 20, 2012

Straight line ripper fractures the ground better and almost always will leave it a lot smoother. V ripper tends to break out chunks. Much more likely to need tillage before planting with a V ripper. Don't like either in the spring but certainly wouldn't use a V type. Several years ago at an auction I bought a shear bolt DMI 2500 for $1500 so decent buys are out there. Spring reset would be nice, but I don't have big rocks so really unnecessary. Undoubtedly got it cheaper because it had shear bolts. Worked with an engineer that later went to Deere. He said the DMI 2500 did a better job than the JD 2100 because it fractured as least as well and left the ground smoother. Never really discussed it after that and perhaps JD has improved it.

buickanddeere · Feb 20, 2012

Just the JD 22B single ripper with the 10" wide Laser Tip bottom was a load for the 1640 2WD in clay. Was sinking it plenty deep at 24+ inches.
Depended on the length of the top link if it was just ripping or lifting and ripping.

flying belgian · Feb 20, 2012

I am planning on pulling 3 shanks with a 110 hp. fwa. I was told 36 hp/shank. Think I will be ok?

Stuart · Feb 20, 2012

Sorry. Wrong post.lol. Yes you should be fine.

Row Crop · Feb 20, 2012

I have a 6 shank Hiniker straight ripper. I didn't think I would need the coulters either. Plug up after plug up in soy stubble. Now I have coulters running 4" depth, does good. I pull it with a 285 HP front assist CaseIH at 14-16' deep. Makes her snort, but does the job. Do half a field, and not the other, and watch next years yeild. You will rip ALL your bean stubble next fall!

the tractor vet · Feb 20, 2012

YEa ok so let's get technical .

tomNE · Feb 20, 2012

mother nature forget to freeze out your ground?

no one or thing works as well as mother nature.
prime example is spring plowing. without mother nature to help breaking up the plow pan; your basicly screwed. that's what makes fall plowing work.

the tractor vet · Feb 20, 2012

What the he- ll-o are ya trying to rip sand stone . According to the old DMI block man he says 30-35 per shank . He also told me that the 1066 did not have enough snort . Weeeeeeelllllllllll this one does and with them new Stones on her she sure do get a hold of the ground . There were only two places that gave me any trouble and both of then need tile and both are on the side of a small hill . I had to go down the hill with some extra speed to get thru them .

the tractor vet · Feb 20, 2012

Yea it SHOULD . Just make sure that you have more then enough weight on the nose as the draft from the tool will load the rear. A set of axle mount duals will also help.

dieseldoc · Feb 20, 2012

plant them in the fall and roots will grow through winter. I did it in iowa and you are no colder then me.

OliverGuy · Feb 20, 2012

I've got a DMI 527. It's two straight rows of hydraulic discs up front (not straight coulters), 5 ripper shanks 27" apart and then a disc leveler. I couldn't be happier. Pull it with 225 hp though. I have brought up the front discs in bean stubble before and depending on conditions, it did ball around the shanks some. I have used other rippers before and one coulter in front of the shank helps a bunch. This ripper will go through corn stalks even. I usually chisel my corn stalks, but I found lots of beans this year with really deep roots. I ripped corn stalks in front of beans just to see what happens. It mixed in stover from 200+ bu corn just fine. I think 110hp with FWA would be fine with 3. Especially if it's a White.

dixon boy RL · Feb 20, 2012

i started out with 7 shank Big Ox v-ripper behind a steiger 4 wd tractor. ripped the 3pt right off that unit TWICE. articulated and 3pt rippers do not get along. went later to a BlueJEt design unit. Man what a different unit it was it really lift the groung in waves. Now days thou the landoll rippers etc are all the rage with 400 plus tractors on them. me I don't do any that now put all of the ground owned in the Crp program and cash rent out all the rest. i make more this way than I was actually farming. all shop work nowdays is better year around pay.

nickg · Feb 20, 2012

Weve used both and found a straight ripper shatters a lot better. Id stay away from any 3pt ripper myself. Puts a lot of strain on your 3pt and we had a lot of troubles with bending and breaking the 3pt mounts on the ripper.But we have pretty heavy clay here. drawbar rippers are so much easier to pull and level better and dont bring up as many chunks on the end or make you add more weight so the front end stays down which goes back to the stayin level thing. Ive found that even in bean ground the coulters are still good to have. They help the bean stubble from ballin up and seem to help the shanks wear plates from wearing out as fast to me. We still sometimes chisel but mostly weve gone to just ripping.

paul · Feb 20, 2012

Typically, it's colder. I dabble with turnips and radish, and a typical winter they are done in late december. Doesn't pay unless you can get them in the ground before mid September.

This year they mighta kept growing, but no snow, and no rain, they never came up.

--->Paul

Deep ripping

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