"Homemade" does not imply "cheap" or inadequate. At least not when I do it. I can't speak for what you've done.
Major companies like Deere, Case, Ford, IH, etc. have commonly used 1035 cold-rolled steel for their smaller 3/4" and 7/8" splined shafts. Cast-iron and cast-steel is used for couplers that drive those shafts. 1045 steel isn't something particularly rare or special or expensive. If a tractor has a keyed shaft, they are easy and cheap to make and just as strong as the originals.
I'll add that is there is not any "tremendous" speed involved here as you claim. Crank-driven pumps and shafts rarely sees 3000 RPM.
Pumps made by Cessna and Webster-Electric usually have standard spine-sizes that are used by many tractor companies. Thus there are many factory made splined shafts available cheap. If you need a 8" long shaft for a Deere? Instead of paying Deere $400 for it, you can buy an aftermarket shaft for a Ford 730 loader that is 13 5/8" long and only costs $25. It is 7/8" OD by 13 splines on both ends just like Deere uses. All is needed is to cut a section out of the center and splice to together with a 2" piece of 7/8" ID DOM alloy-tube. Then weld.
I have made many over the past 50 years and have yet to see one fail. Only wear out over time, like the originals.
I just made a coupler, drive flange and 8" double-splined shaft for my IH 3414. Used parts bought on this site and it cost me $75 total. From IH industrial (Komatsu) the price was $750. So I made something that's stronger then the original for 1/10th the cost.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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