I bought a '11 GM last April, my first GM in 20 years. Locks close at about 5 mph (forward or reverse directions of travel) and stay closed till you either put it in park or push the unlock button on the drivers arm rest.
If you want to drive with no locks, just push the unlock button after you get over 5 and they lock.
I was thinking about disabling mine for the above mentioned reasons, but also per the above mentioned reasons, I decided that I can learn to live with them.
On this truck you cannot lock the door with the engine on or off and key in the ignition until you have tried to do it twice. First time it won't work and you get a warning chime...i.e. do you really want to lock the door with the key in the ign? Second time you punch the lock button, it locks.
If you get out of the truck, in park, and accidentally lock the drivers door on your way out via the conventional door locking button and come back and think oh no, I locked myself out, you didn't. The rest of the doors are still open.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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