Cold start symptoms: As originally installed from the rebuilder, on the '89, marks aligned, barely start unaided in heated garage (50deg.F). If it sat outside and got cold, no prayer of starting it without block heater. With block heat it would start promptly with no missing. In both cases the engine had to be red hot before the white haze would go away. When I learned advancing the timing would make the smoke go away, (and start better) I began to wonder about the cam ring. The drive shaft is keyed to the gear, the plunger shaft is screwdriver-slotted to the drive shaft... there's nothing between these 3 pieces that can be mis-adjusted.The only other thing that moves is the cam ring. I should also point out that this problem existed from day one. The pump was installed in cold weather, and has never had a decent cold start since. I kind of don't think it's drain-back, once it starts it never dies or misses. At one point I swapped pump covers with a known good pump, thinking it might be the cold advance components. No change.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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