need Stanadyne experts

Fritz Maurer

Well-known Member
Had a DB pump rebuilt for installation on a '89 F-350. Never started good in cold weather, Rebuilder said timing gears worn, and to advance it 4 deg. Well that didn't work, so he said engine was wasted (47000 miles?) So I just kept limping along with it, keeping it plugged in, constantly fiddling with the glow plugs, etc. (The thing ran good; just hard to start). Till one day the trans went out, and it was laid up for awhile. About this same time, the pump on my '90 Super Duty grenaded, so I swiped the pump from the '89 for the '90. The '90 always started unaided in the coldest weather. After the pump switch, it exhibited the exact same symptoms as the '89. I advanced it as far as the slots would let it go, then it would start okay. Not great, but livable, and it's been running this way since '01. I've got it off again now while changing head gaskets. I want to go through it and make it right, I was wondering if it's possible that the cam ring could be in backwards. If not that, what else might be the problem? Thanks Fritz
 
Its been awhile on these older fords I think these have a gear on the drive end of the pump. If you put it on like it is put the gear teeths off one tooth. I had to do this on a 5.9 cummins with a stanadyne pump before and it ran like a striped ape. Just a thought?
 
On the 7.3s the pump was unbolted from the gear and the gear was left in the engine. I suppose you could make it jump a tooth during installation, but remember, it ran fine before I put this rebuilt pump on it.
 
If the cam ring was backwards it wouldn't run - or if did it would barely run.

Need more details. Ford and GMs that age had many fuel drain-back issues that caused hard starting after being parked for awhile. That because of air intrusion into the fuel.

I don't believe the claim of your timing gears being so worn that your DB2 pump is retarded to that degree. Ford 6.9s and 7.3 are all gear drive, whereas GM 6.2s and 6.5s have a chain. The latter do wear a little, but not much.

What does it do when it finally starts cold? Run smooth or skip, sputter and smoke for awhile.
 
Cold start symptoms: As originally installed from the rebuilder, on the '89, marks aligned, barely start unaided in heated garage (50deg.F). If it sat outside and got cold, no prayer of starting it without block heater. With block heat it would start promptly with no missing. In both cases the engine had to be red hot before the white haze would go away. When I learned advancing the timing would make the smoke go away, (and start better) I began to wonder about the cam ring. The drive shaft is keyed to the gear, the plunger shaft is screwdriver-slotted to the drive shaft... there's nothing between these 3 pieces that can be mis-adjusted.The only other thing that moves is the cam ring. I should also point out that this problem existed from day one. The pump was installed in cold weather, and has never had a decent cold start since. I kind of don't think it's drain-back, once it starts it never dies or misses. At one point I swapped pump covers with a known good pump, thinking it might be the cold advance components. No change.
 

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