As a former 2010 owner I can tell you I wasn't too thrilled with it. Never did have to rebuild the engine, though.
I see that's a gas engine as mine was. It got to where it wouldn't run without the choke out. Also rapidly burned out points. Turned out the switch was bad, new switch fixed those problems.
Transmissions give trouble sometimes with engaging gears. One adjustment is on the LH lower side of the transmission. As I recall, there is a bolts that can be adjusted. If the transmission shifts properly, don't touch that adjustment.
On the lower RH side of the transmission cas is the access plate for the hydraulic oil filter. It a brass and steel strainer affair, and can get clogged up to the point where ordinary washing in solven won't get it clean, even though it looks clean. Solution is a new filter. I think someone on here described a more serious cleaning method, maybe boiling in ammonia or something equally drastic but don't remember what it was.
The tractor gave much better service when it was kept sheltered.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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