Tony,if the engine is still in the doner vehicle this will be simple. There is indeed a bunch of wires going into and out of the distributer but every one of them go to a control module which is mounted to the firewall or fender. At the module you will find a second pig tail plug with 2 or 3 wires that go elsewhere. Unplug that 2 or 3 wire plug. As a measure of safty disable starter at solinoid. Turn the ignition switch to the on/run position. With volt meter black lead on engine for a ground,test for 12 volts inside the plug you removed from control module with red meter lead. That is run and will conect to wire that supplies 12 volts on 302 coil. Have a helper hold ignition switch to start position. Test for 12 volts as before. That is start and gos to start post of ignition or starter side of solinoid so that it recieves 12v only while engine is cranking. Turn ignition off. If there is a 3rd wire,test it at ohm setting for o resistance to engine block which would be simply a ground wire. Reconnect tested plug to module,clip wires off 8 inches back,leave other wires from module to distributor connected. Unbolt module from fender and zip tie it along with bundled wires to intake manifold. That's it.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - Tractor Engine Repair - by Teri Burkholder. One of the great things about working on a tractor engine with your other half is that you know what he is thinking of at all times and can anticipate his every move and his next thought of what he will do. With Ben, anyway, I can tell! He'll be busy working and I�m handing him tools and he says, "give me that..." and I�ve already got it in his hand or "hand me that....."and I�ve got the portable light right where he needed it placed to see. "Run in the house and get me a...."as I open th
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