Brad, when measuring voltage drop, "nothing" is good. You do need to make sure you're getting a good contact with your probes, which should be obvious as the meter display will settle down when your probes make contact. If there's no voltage drop, then the meter should show only a few millivolts.
If you can get the lights to pulsate at idle, I'd check the positive voltage at different points: the battery, the alternator and the lights themselves. Always use the same ground, preferably the negative battery post. I expect you'll see the voltage fluctuation everywhere, but if you don't it will give you a clue where to look. If you DON'T see any voltage fluctuation, the the problem isn't in the charging system; more likely a bad lighting ground.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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