not knowing with one you have i'm assuming it's one of the older models without all the electronics, first make sure the sprocket clutch is driving the pump shaft and the adjustment hasn't slipped out of adjustment or the key in the shaft that drives the adjustment lever isn't sheared or missing, if the shaft is working ok remove the 2 long bolts that hold the housings to the pump that the hoses connect to ,the housing can then be removed exposing the check valves, check them for broken springs or parts ,also you can see the pump piston, rotate the pump and see if the piston moves ,if it doesn't move and the adjustment hasn't slipped something has broke or come loose inside the pump ,the piston has seals inside the cyl. barrel if they wear out generally it's hard to prime and you loose pressure, but in my experience not completely there are 4 bolts that hold the cly. barrel to the crankcase when removed the barrel can be slid off the piston exposing the piston seals, isn't complicated to rebuild even a complete rebuild of the crankcase,a piston seal kit cost aprox.85 dollars most all the ones iv'e talked to that had pumps rebuilt said it cost them from 700 to 800 dollars , i put a seal kit, connecting rod ,bearings and shaft seals in mine for less than 200 a couple years ago sounds to me like someone was making a good profit
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Today's Featured Article - Gettin My Old Tractor Home - by Clayton Sweeney. My name is Clayton Sweeney. I am from Southern Maryland in a small town called Lothian. I am 20 and my father and I are the proud owner of a 1954 Allis Chalmers WD-45. When I was 18, I dated a girl in the next county over. Her family are tobacco farmers. It was a cold Thanksgiving evening, and we were going up to her Grandparents house. As we passed one of their barns, I noticed something orange in the corner of my eye in this old shed. It was pretty dark and I asked what it was
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