Make sure you use metal fittings coming out of the bottom. I used brass on mine. My dad had a plastic elbow on one that cracked and cost him an extra 20,000 gallons of rural water one month. Some guys around here put them in a 3" pvc pipe to isolate them from the acid in the soil. If you do this, be sure to close up the top of the pvc pipe or the cold air will go down it and freeze the supply line. Galvanized pipe is not what it used to be. You could coat the pipe with tar and it would do the same thing. If you have high water table, the hydrant might not drain and then would freeze. Don't pour concrete tight around it, unless you make removable sections that could come out for service some years down the road. Buy a hydrant with the design of service from the top. Then you can replace the plunger and seal without digging. If you are installing it very far from your water supply, go a size larger with your pipe to minimize pressure drop.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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