Make sure you use metal fittings coming out of the bottom. I used brass on mine. My dad had a plastic elbow on one that cracked and cost him an extra 20,000 gallons of rural water one month. Some guys around here put them in a 3" pvc pipe to isolate them from the acid in the soil. If you do this, be sure to close up the top of the pvc pipe or the cold air will go down it and freeze the supply line. Galvanized pipe is not what it used to be. You could coat the pipe with tar and it would do the same thing. If you have high water table, the hydrant might not drain and then would freeze. Don't pour concrete tight around it, unless you make removable sections that could come out for service some years down the road. Buy a hydrant with the design of service from the top. Then you can replace the plunger and seal without digging. If you are installing it very far from your water supply, go a size larger with your pipe to minimize pressure drop.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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