Hand lever? You mean the throttle? You have to get that working of course, to have a useable tractor. Think their is a friction pivot, loosen the nut on the pivot and see what's up? Or maybe I'm not understanding.
When you look at the pto shaft, the knuckle at the tracotr end has to match the knuckle at the implement end. If it's a square shaft & you took it apart, you coulda put it together rotated 90 degrees. Take a look at it, are the knuckles the same when you look straight down on it, or are they opposite each other - one looks different than the other turned a 1/4 turn? If they are not the same, they end up knocking against each other (it's the way they spin, high-faluten mathamatics can explain it....), and make a horrible racket.
If your throttle is stuck and you aren't fixing that; and you're using a big bush hog on a tractor without a live pto, you _are_ aware of the dangers of the brush hog moving the tractor long after you push the clutch in - would be safer with an Over Running Coupler on your pto shaft. You really need to throttle down your tractor proerly too.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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