Not sure of the manufacturer, bought at Menards, can look tonight.
Total length 8', buried just under 4' of it. Dug a big well at the bottom and put in probably a 2'x4'x1.5'(deep) bed of crushed rock, under and around it is all clay. Only time I had trouble was the first winter I had it installed, I had a pipe freeze near the house (not the hydrant's fault) so I went down to water the horses and when I got no water I left the darned hydrant on so it froze in the on position. Got it thawed with water from a kettle and fixed my other problem and it has been great.
If I were doing it again I would bury it a bit deeper, maybe so it's only 3' out of the ground, not for freezing but so it's easier remove full buckets from for the wife. Any way you do it, it sure beats hauling water from the house in buckets which is what I did the first winter we were there.
Oh, one more thing, I would have had the rain hold off for about a day or two more after I dug the trench. Connecting pipe and installing a hydrant is much easier if you are not in a 6-7' deep mud pit!
This post was edited by Inno at 14:31:12 07/15/11.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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