Oil, Oil Filter and Air Breather
In the preceding articles we discussed some of the various aspects of
doing a comprehensive tune up. Hopefully some light was shed on why we
do or don't do certain things pertaining to inspections and order of
events when doing a tune up. Perhaps some useful reasons were given
for why parts fail and what to do about preventing part failure in the
future. All these tips will help us think and reason out a problem in
order to make our tune up last and, hopefully, keep us from spending
extra money.
If the reader has been present from the beginning of this series he
will recall making an inventory list before the tune up procedures
began. On this list was a collection of observations of the overall
engine and tractor condition. Some of the items on that list include
the fluid levels and their color. As we continue our tune up
discussion we will continue to examine some of the notes that were made.
The oil color can help you determine whether or not it is time for a
change. On a gasoline engine, oil that is black as pitch is way
beyond the change interval. Indications are that it is full of
dissolved carbon and dirt. On the other hand, a diesel will usually
have a black color to it as it is a reaction of the oil compounds and
additives to the blow by of the piston which contains diesel fuel,
sulphur, and emissions. A heavy brownish color of the oil along with
tarnish on the dipstick usually indicates that the motor has been hot.
The hot conditions have forced certain compounds of the oil to
chemically react and produce the varnish looking appearance. A milky
white color indicates excessive moisture in the engine. This can
either result from a coolant leak into the oil or can be attributed to
frequent on/off operation in colder or humid climates without letting
the engine come up to a normal operating temperature for an extended
period of time. Of course green droplets on the dipstick that smell
sweet indicate antifreeze contamination in the crankcase. Oil that is
an amber or lightish brown is the norm and should be changed along the
recommended hourly or monthly guidelines supplied in your manual
A good tune up should include a fresh change of oil and filter. The
oil is the blood of the motor. Microscopic oil films keeps moving
metal parts from welding to each other. Keeping this lubricant clean
and of a good quality will keep an engine running for many hours.
There are many types of motor oils on the market today. Two basic
catagories are the 'Texas' crudes and the 'Pennsylvania' crudes, each
of which has their champions. Generally, the Texas crudes are pumped
from deeper oil reservoirs and tend to have a higher parafinnic
content than the Pennsylvania crudes. Since the oils have to meet a
standard for parafin content it probably doesn't matter which
geographic location it comes
from. Oil viscosity is how fast the oil pours under given conditions.
The lower the vis number the faster it flows. A 10 weight motor oil
pours like milk at room temperature while a 40 weight pours like
syrup. Lighter weights should be used under cold climate conditions
where the motor will take a long time to come up to operating
temperature; the lighter oil will lubricate better when cold. A
heavier weight is best under hot climate or above normal engine
running conditions as it won't run off of the motor parts as fast as a
lighter oil. That is where multiviscosity oil, such as 10w-30, comes
in. It has the characteristics of 10w oil when the engine first
starts and the characteristics of 30w after operating temperature is
reached. Some manufacturers recommend only a straight weight for
their particular motor, so check your specs before you buy your oil.
Another motor oil rating is the American Petroleum Institute or API
rating. This rating, SA, SB, SC, or CA, CB, CC pertains to the
application of the oil. The 'S' related numbers are referring to
automobile useage, the 'C' rating is dealing with trucks, industrial,
and diesel engine applications. The 'A' subheading refers to a light
load application up to the 'C' subheading which is a more severe
operation of the motor. The same applies for the 'C' main headings.
Overall differences in the numbers pertain to the additives present in
the oil which retard corrosion, sulphur content (as in diesels),
particle suspension chemicals, moisture absorbability, oil shear, and
the like. Check with your manual to determine the appropriate
application for your engine. Some oils have a high detergent heading
on their containers. Keep in mind that these oils have a high
internal engine cleaning ability and may not be the best thing to put
into an older, unrebuilt engine. These detergents can loosen up built
up carbon, goo, and debris in an older unit that may cause more
serious problems such as the plugging up of the oil intake screen or
circulation galleys and filters. Non detergent oils are available and
should be considered on older motors that have heavy deposit build ups
under the valve covers or oil filler cap.
Bring the tractor up to operating temperature, shut it off, and drain
the oil into a pan. If the tractor has a high oil pan you can put a
wide mouth funnel into an old milk jug and drain it directly into your
disposal container. Make sure that the jug is big enough to take all
the crankcase has to offer, though. When the oil is drained clean the
plug threads with a clean rag and reinstall the plug, then move your
container underneath the oil filter. Remove it, place it upside down
in your container or funnel and let the oil drain out. Wipe off any
accumulated dirt around the seal where filter mates to the engine. If
the filter is easy to get to and can be reinstalled without tipping,
fill it with clean motor oil before replacing it. Remove the engine
breather cap or oil filler cap and inspect its underside. It should
be generally clean of carbon, dirt, and goo. Heavy buildup or
concentrations of the above may indicate further ventilation problems
in the motor vapor circuit. Check the PCV (positive crankcase
ventilation) valve and make sure it freely rattles and does not bind
from excessive moisture/oil buildup. You also might check any vacuum
hoses to the carburator base making sure they are not collapsed or
have pin holes in them. Clean the oil cap and PCV valve with clean
solvent, blow dry and reinstall. Fill the motor with the correct type
and amount of oil. Do not overfill as the extra oil may cavitate in
crankcase as the crankshaft counterweights come around. It will also
promote seal and gasket failure by submerging those items in a
constant bath of oil. One last note is to take the oil and filter to
a recycling center for proper disposal. Consider that the oil itself
never wears out, it merely gets dirty and the additives wear out. By
re-refining it the oil will be identical to the stuff that comes out
of the ground and goes through the same refining process.
After the oil and oil filter are replaced take a moment to inspect the
air cleaner or oil bath unit. This often overlooked step may,
literally, breath new life into your engine. If the filters have
excessive dirt and debris in them it will reduce the efficiency of
your engine by enriching the fuel to the combustion chamber. This
will result in poor performance, black exhaust, excessive carbon
buildup, washing of the cylinder walls from too much fuel, and
internal engine wear. If the unit has a paper filter, remove it and
inspect it for squashing or torn paper in the element itself along
with any evidence of oil. If sound, reverse blow it (from inside to
out) with an air gun taking care not to get too close to the paper
itself with the air stream. Clean out the filter cannister, check the
cannister to carburator gasket, and reinstall with the correct torque
on the wingnut or retaining fastener. Oil in the filter element can
indicate a faulty ventilation system or excessive blow by of the
pistons from worn or broken rings. If the tractor has an oil bath
cleaner assembly then remove the unit and disassemble on a work bench.
Lift out the wire mesh and clean it in mineral spirits or equivalent
solvent and let it air dry. Dispose of the oil in the lower body
assembly, clean out the cannister bottom, and refill with fresh oil to
the fill line. Check the tube that the air flows through to the
engine (if so equiped) for dirt build up and debris. Also check the
oil bath air cap assembly (if so equiped) for weed seeds and dirt.
This unit is designed to make the incoming air create a vortex which
moves much of the heavier material to the outside of the breather cap
through centifugal force. The heavier debris then settles along the
outside rim of the cap or dust collector instead of going into the oil
bath itself. Before closing the cowl on the air breather service,
check any intake air hoses between the engine and filter for cracking,
drying out, oil contamination, or pin holes. In a dusty field even
the smallest hole can let in damaging dirt.
Our engine should now have clean air and oil to extend it's life span
and give it the ability to perform at its peak. Our topic next time
will cover the cooling and fuel system along with miscellaneous tips
on diagnosing engine maladies.
Contributing Author - Curtis Von Fange
Related Articles:
Oil Bath Air Filters
What Kind of Oil Should I Use?
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